In late June, I visited the Little tern breeding area at Kemigawa Beach. It was a Sunday and everyone seemed to be staying indoors during the COVID-19, but there were some “beach goers” out enjoying themselves. There are also some “bird watchers” with their big, long camera lenses and looking through binoculars in one particular area of the beach.
The little tern breeding ground is a section of the beach roped off to keep people out of the area.
Both the eggs and chicks are very camouflaged, and I had a hard time finding them at first. I finally found them when the parent bird brought some food to the chick. After some time, once my eyes got the right search image, then I could confirm that there were eggs and chicks everywhere.
Two eggs and one chick.
One egg and two chicks.
These two chicks were a little bigger.
The chick receiving its food.
Probably the parent birds are stressed about getting enough food to their babies, but we on-lookers are filled with joy at seeing this precious sight. We can hear loving comments and coos coming from the bird watchers as they get their food.
A newly hatched chick and its older sibling.
It is so surprising to think that this is a sight so close to Tokyo City, just on the Tokyo Bay. It really impressed me that these little guys can breed and survive these tough situations in a small area surrounded by such a metropolis. I was so moved by what I saw this day.
Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: End of Jun 2020, Kemigawa beach, Chiba, Japan
Special Thanks: Hobby’s World, Rocky MATSUMURA
These “Mysterious Underwater Circles” of Amami Oshima became a hot topic when a TV program introducing them was broadcasted. Originally found by an underwater photographer in 1995, he didn’t know who made them and for what purpose they were there. It was in 2011, that we finally discovered that it was made by small pufferfish.
The Amami Oshima’s “Mysterious Underwater Circle” is often made nearly 30m deep, so it is hard to observe for long at that depth; and the seasons and tides limit the divers’ abilities to observe these circles, so it took 16 years before we were able to meet its creator, the pufferfish.
This is the male pufferfish, Torquigener albomaculosus, the creator of the circle. In 2014, this pufferfish was registered as a new species. The Japanese name “Amami Hoshizorafugu” is named so because of the dotted pattern on its back, like the many stars in the beautiful night sky of Amami Oshima. (In Japanese “Hoshizora”= starlit night sky, “fugu” = pufferfish)
We observed this white-spotted pufferfish over five days, as it was constructing the circle. In this photo, the pufferfish is decorating the outer edge of the circle with shells. It seems that the fish shapes the shell by chewing on a larger shell in its mouth.
The first step in creating the circle, is for the pufferfish to choose a spot that it likes and begin by removing and seaweed from the area. Then it will make a groove which will be the basis of the circle. For the making of the outer circle, the groove is formed by the small fish using its pectoral fins to roll up the sand moving from side to side. Slowly, the sand is piled up on both sides to form a deeper groove.
The center of the circle, where the eggs will be laid, is made into a gentle shallow area using its stomach.
White-spotted pufferfish which has finally finished making its circle. But even then, it’s very busy with maintenance to keep the shape.
Now it is just a waiting game, until a female pufferfish comes by and likes his circle!
At this time in May 2022, during high tide there were seven circles in the diving area. This morning, one male had success as there were some eggs in the middle of the circle! The gray color mass in the middle of the photo are the eggs.
As soon as the female lays the eggs, she disappears and the male will take care of the eggs in his circle. He will consistently move the eggs and sand with its fins and continue to send them fresh seawater.
A male white-spotted pufferfish who is busy taking care of his eggs. The maintenance of the circle stops and therefore the shape is starting to collapse a little.
So, in this 30m deep area where we were diving, we could see 6 of the 7 circles had eggs. But the one that had no eggs yet, which we nicknamed “Fuguta,” this was the circle that I thought was “the most beautiful and splendid circle” but sadly, it wasn’t chosen by a female pufferfish. I am sure there is a difference between the pufferfish and our senses, but even so, I was disappointed that it was not selected…it was like a Japanese saying that “it was the crowd favorite, but it failed to qualify for the finals.”
Our little “Fuguta,” who was dedicated to the maintenance of his circle. He was laboring over it, however, he wasn’t as energetic as yesterday.
“Fuguta” would not give up! The breeding season will continue for another two months. I left the seabed praying for him, that he’ll be able to attract another female during the next high tide.
Of the 15 dives over a 5 day period, 10 dives were spent observing the white-spotted pufferfish. We observed all the various stages from circle construction, the maintenance, and then of taking care of the eggs. It looks a very smart fish.
Photos & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: May 2022, Amami Oshima
Special Thanks: Dive Species Amami, Mr. Homare SUWA
In early July of 2021, the “Teuri Island Seabird Class” was led by nature photographer, Takaki Terasawa, who lives on Teuri Island. The tour was 4 days and 3 nights, with a full syllabus, to learn about the seabirds, take pictures of them, and learn more about the environmental issues they face, and to just enjoy seeing the Island itself.
During the stay, on a clam morning, Mr. Terasawa captained the ship named “Keimafuri-Gou” for our seabird observation cruise. (Keimafuri is the Japanese name for the Spectacled Guillemot.) During this season, daybreak was at 4am, so by the time we left the dock at 6am, it was already bright out. As we pulled out from Maehama Fishing Port, we could see the Rhinoceros Auklets floating around us in the water here and there. We headed out towards the direction of Akaiwa (Red Rock.)
As we neared Akaiwa (Red Rock) I could see the Spectacled Guillemots flying! They are a seabird that only breeds on the coasts of the Sea of Okhotsk, on the Kamchatka Peninsula, and in Japan, they are only found in Aomori Prefecture and Hokkaido. So it is so rare to see them in the world and even more rare to be able to see their breeding grounds.
Just around Akaiwa (Red Rock) and Byobuiwa (Folding Screen Rock) there were so many Spectacled Guillemots. Their appearance makes the name pretty easy to understand, as their wonderful eye rings makes them look as if they are “wearing glasses.” Some of the Kuril Island’s Pigeon Guillemots with their white eyes where worriedly looking at our boat “Is that the Keimafuri?” But the thick white-ringed eyes of the Spectacled Guillemots were really superb.
The Spectacled Guillemots that were sitting on the rocks. According to Mr. Terasawa, these rocky areas are very significant areas for these seabirds. There have been various behaviors while observing them here, as well as even seeing birds mate on this rocky outcrop.
I could also hear the loud calls of the Spectacled Guillemots from the rocks. It feels like I could just watch them forever, as they are engaged in their conversations out there.
Over here also, it’s as if the other birds are watching these two birds at the top converse.
This is a splendid pair. The breast feathers of the bird on the right are unique.
Then, as if it is timed, they all take off in unison. The red legs of the Guillemots are kicking at the surface of the water as they take flight.
Captain Terasawa’s vessel “Keimafuri-Gou” is a small 6-seater. Getting that eye-level view, is possible only on the Keimafuri-Gou! And the name of the boat on the side, was beautifully hand-painted by Mr. Terasawa himself!
This is a bottle of Junmai Sake sold at “Umi no Uchukan” (Teuri Visitor Center) is named after the Spectacled Guillemots as well. The “Keimafuri” sake is 100% made from Hokkaido grown rice in Asahikawa by farmer Takasago Shuzo. And the Guillemot pair on the label is a drawing made by illustrator Hiroshi Abe. It is a very nice label.
After seeing the wild birds in the morning, we enjoyed the evening with sea urchin caught locally and some delicious Keimafuri Sake at night…
To close the trip, we had a tasty local flavor of “Teuri’s Barbecue.” This is the peak season for the harvest of purple sea urchins! By the way, the meat in the background is “the phantom Suffolk lamb” from nearby Yagishiri Island. I could receive the “fortunes” of Yagishiri Island also!
Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: July 2021, Teuri island, Hokkaido
In the beginning of July, we operated a tour called the “Teuri Island Seabird Class” lead by Takaki Terasawa, a nature photographer living on Teuri Island. First thing in the morning, we took his boat the “Keimafuri-Go” and headed out to sea. (Keimafuri is the Japanese name for the Spectacled Guillemot.) We went to the rocky outcrop near Aka iwa (Red Rock) where the Rhinoceros Auklet like to gather.
These birds are said to be widely distributed along the North Pacific Seas, from Japan’s northern coast to the Kuril Islands, Aleutian Islands, and towards Alaska, but it is not easy to get close enough to see them. It is quite rare to find places where you can observe them actually!
Teuri Island is the largest breeding area in the world for these Auklets, and here you can see them when the adult birds display their “horns” (and pretty easily to access at that!) so this spot is quite a precious place.
The “horns” of the Auklets are a special growth that appears on their beaks during the breeding season on adult birds. This horn is where they get the name “Rhinoceros Auklet.” This protrusion is not seen on young birds or non-breeding birds. The first time I saw a Rhinocerous Auklet was super exciting! I happened to be on a sperm whale cruise in the Nemuro Strait and we knew the sighting was so rare.
The outcrop that is near the tidal areas of Akaiwa (Red Rock). For some reason the birds are always trying to land on this rock and there seems to be some important social interactions happening there. Some of them display some territorial behaviors and chase away other birds to keep them off of the rocky structure.
This group of 4 birds seem to be involved in a conversation about something.
Dynamic moves afoot!
These two are looking quite, um, friendly?
These two are also having a good relationship as well?
These two are an item, it seems!
There are so many different things going on in this place, I could just watch them for a long time! It is an important place for the Rhinoceros Auklets.
The view you see, looking down from the Akaiwa Observatory. You can see how all the Auklets are gathering around this single rock outcrop.
While I was observing them, they suddenly, all took off and flew away at once. This morning, we could have stayed watching them all day long, watching the interesting interactions of the Auklets. In 2021 their breeding situation was a little concerning, so I pray that as many chicks as possible could fledge from this breeding area.
Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: July 2021, Teuri Island, Hokkaido
On the 3rd day of our tour, I went in search of the Snow Goose just before daybreak. Just upon my arrival, I heard the noise and when I looked out, the geese were flying all around me!
I went down to the wetland, and could see many Snow Geese and Cackling Geese. Over and over again, I could see about 1000 Snow Geese swirling over my head, as they took flight and landed. It was a relatively short distance away and I could observe them from the car, so it was a great time.
In the afternoon of the second day at that location, I went to observe the Ural Owl, but unfortunately, I could not find it. In the park, I saw the Hokkaido Squirrel, running about and they were so cute.
Again in the evening, I went in search of the flocks of Cackling Goose, but they were in a totally different spot. The evening light shone on them beautifully as they were spread out across the open field.
On the 4th day, we went in search of the pikas in the mountains. When I was waiting quietly in the morning, I could hear it calling and could make a sighting as well! While I was there, I heard a noise of rustling in the distance and saw a brown bear, so decided to descend from the mountain for safety. Then as we neared our car, and did a quick search nearby, we found another pika and everyone in the group could see it! We were so elated!
After we descended from the mountain, we looked for the Hokkaido squirrel in the afternoon. I was able to capture this lovely moment of a little squirrel standing on a carpet of yellow leaves of the Ginko trees.
In the evening, upon the request of one of the group members, I went looking for a Hazel Grouse. I couldn’t get a good photo, but we did get a great chance to see a male Hazel Grouse take flight directly in front of us. We ended this day watching the sunset from the observatory, as it silhouetted the Hidaka Mountain range.
On the final day of the tour, I set out before sunrise to catch the flocks of snow geese, but the swamp was so quiet. When the sun rose, we could see there were no geese in the water. It seems they all returned to the mainland sometime in the evening the day before! It was too bad we could not see them on our final day, but as we looked out over the quiet wetlands, I offered a prayer that they could all safely navigate their migration ahead.
As a final stop, we stopped in Obihiro City’s park to look for some more bird species. We were looking for bird species that we still had not yet seen, like the Great Spotted Woodpecker, Marsh Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch, which we were able to see. We even got to see another Hokkaido Squirrel.
We were able to see a total of 7 species of Geese during the tour. It is only in Hokkaido that you can see all the species that can be found in Japan, in one single tour. And easily, at that, if you move from location to location in time to see their migrations. In the spring, the geese will come back where there is still snow on the ground, so please come then to see them! Thanks for reading this report and hope to see you here!
Photo & text: Kaito IMAHORI
Tour date: 26-30 Oct 2021, Tokachi, Hokkaido
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
Arrived at the Notsuke Peninsula. The main purpose of this tour is to observe a particular species of goose. The Notsuke Peninsula is a famous migration stopover for the Brant Goose, which is designated as a National Natural Monument, and up to about 5,000 birds can be seen at this location. Looking out at Notsuke Bay, there are many black and slightly larger birds at the surface! Immediately, we accomplished our goal, to see the Brant. There are many spread far apart, but a quick count reveals a flock of over 1000 birds.
After further observation, a white colored swan is mixed in with the Brandt. When I was trying to confirm the new species we were seeing, there, mixed in with the Whooper Swans, were actually two individuals of the flock that were slightly smaller and had a round yellow pattern on the beak. They are the Tundra swan. So this confirmation made it the third type of waterfowl observed.
As we went up the shoreline, there were other wintering birds, the Glaucous Gulls up on the shore. Can you see a difference in the two species that are there, the more common species of Hokkaido, the Slaty-backed Gulls (with the darker wings), and their size is different as well.
On our return trip we further enjoyed the Notsuke Penninsula, as we saw red foxes, and a male deer chasing after a female deer. We headed to Nemuro feeling fulfilled.
On the second day of the tour, we started from Lake Sunset, our inn on the Shores of Lake Furen.
Very close by is the Shunkunitai Wild Bird Sanctuary, where we could observe from a distance a pair of Red-crowned Cranes and a flock of Northern Pintails. From here, we drove to Tsuri Village. We made a short detour along the way to observe a Ural Owl. Then, during lunch, a Eurasian Sparrowhawk showed up and gave us a nice long arcing swirl overhead.
From the afternoon, we moved to observe the Japanese cranes in Tsurui Village. The autumn leaves were finishing their color show, but the yellow leaves of the Japanese larch still remained and were very beautiful.
Towards the end, the two cranes did their mating dance, and it was the best closing act!
We watched over our shoulders as the last of the cranes flew off, and we headed to Tokachi.
Photo &Text: Kaito IMAHORI
Tour date: 26-30 Oct 2021, Notsuke Peninsula, Lake Furen, Tsurui village
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
Our guestouse in Rausu, Shiretoko Serai’s nature guide, Shohei Morita wrote a report from the 2021 Summer Season!
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This year I could see many brown bears!
Along the Shiretoko Pass which connects Rausu to Utoro, I could see brown bears many times along the way. Due to the pandemic and its effects, this year the tourists coming to Shiretoko Peninsula was much less than usual, so we had less traffic, compared to before.
Also, I could see many brown bears on the boat cruises that leave from Rausu’s Aidomari fishing port. We used the small boat that is usually used for Kelp farming, and I was able to get this shot of the bear from the boat. From summer to autumn, brown bears are attracted to the small rivers along the coast to catch the salmon run.
Year after year, the number of salmon are decreasing while the number of fishermen continues to increase. This makes the situation difficult and a lot of stress on the bears. But despite that, I saw a momma bear teaching her cub how to catch salmon.
There was an unusual encounter with the carcass of a whale washed ashore, and the brown bears gathered around it. It is said that it has been more than 10 years since a large whale had been washed ashore.
It is a large whale, perhaps either a fin whale or a humpback whale.
This is a mother bear with her two cubs who had been born this year. This year’s bad fishing year made the national news, but locally, for the fisherman and especially for the brown bears, it was a big blow. I just hope that this abnormal situation in the sea will end as soon as possible, and that there can be a return of the “Rich seas of Shiretoko.”
And I hope that these two cubs can survive the winter.
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
Our Guesthouse in Rausu, Shiretoko Serai’s nature guide, Kaito Imahori, sent us a report from the 2021 season!
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In 2021, I was able to see one chick and a parent bird next to each other at the Rausu’s Fish Owl Observatory for the first time in several years.
Only about 160 owls live in Japan, and it is difficult to find Blakiston’s fish owls in the wild. In Rausu, there is an accommodation called “Washi no Yado” (Fish Owl Observatory) where you can observe the fish owls visit the river through the night, and where bird watchers also gather and can see them every night.
The pair of Blakiston’s fish owls that came here, have failed to breed for many years. From the fall of 2019, a different female started coming around. No one knew where this new female came from, like where she was born or raised and she was much more fearful of people and now they come to the river more rarely.
In June of this year, when we were observing the male, the female suddenly appeared on a dead tree stump with the male, and they stayed for 30 minutes fishing at the river, and then left. After this day, the female started to appear more at the river, and from August, the long-awaited chicks appeared with the parents. The chicks were taught how to feed on the fish swimming in the river by the mother owls.
The number of chicks found in this year’s survey was at a record high of 37 chicks. I hope that many more owlets can be born and live in the forests of Shiretoko.
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
This is the second part of the winter tour report by bird photographer Gaku Tozuka, during the Tsurui Village Tour to capture Red-crowned Cranes, Jan 10 – 13, 2022.
In the middle of the night, while at the lodging, I heard a large sound, which was like “Zuzaa…” from outside several times, and I thought it was sound of the strong winds blowing. But when I looked out in the morning, I figured out it was instead, the sound of the snow falling off the roof. I cancelled the early morning photo outing because it was very windy and some occasional snow. After our breakfast, I was planning to go out shooting, but the sleet had turned into rain, so I decided to wait until noon. In the meantime, while waiting with everyone, I conducted a course on how to get good shots, for about an hour.
Ural owl
After lunch, the snow and rain had stopped, and so I took the group to see the place where the Ural Owl had been seen. At first, I had to check the trail and location ahead of the group. After I had confirmed the location of the Owl, I went back to get the group and lead them into the woods. We still had some time after that, so we headed to see the Red-crowned Cranes and get photos of them. As soon as we arrived, we spotted the cranes, amongst the fresh snowfall and captured some beautiful scenes. Gradually, the sky grew dark and we were forced to call it quits at 4PM. We were lucky, because in Tsurui Village, the snow had been relatively mild, as I heard reports later, that there were other places that suffered considerable damage due to the heavy snowfall.
And then, it is the last day of the Photography Tour.
Departure was scheduled at 6am. The stars were twinkling in the night sky. There were some clouds to the east, but the weather looked stable enough to go out. However, it was a warm minus 3°C (26°F) and so we would not be able to get photos of the “rime ice” or the fine powdery ice frost we had seen before. Just the fact that it was not snowing or raining was a blessing.
When we arrived at the Otowa Bridge, it was still dim, but there were no other tourists there! It is unbelievable compared to the time when there were so many inbound customers before the Covid-19 Pandemic. It was too warm for the rime ice, but as the sky brightened up, the mallards started moving around and flew away. Back in the Setsuri River, we could see the whooper swans swimming in the beautiful river.
Red-crowned crane
The sun was rising, the temperature fell, and even though the tips of my fingers were hurting from the cold, everyone was focused on their photography. At 8am, the car came to pick us up and we had breakfast. When we went for getting photos of the Red-Crowned Cranes, yesterday’s fresh fallen snow was shining so brightly making it a dazzling scene. I was aiming for their flight and calling, but they were only doing their display towards the back of the flock…so it was difficult to get a good photo!
I was deeply appreciative of Mr. Wada, the owner of HOTEL TAITO, and all the staff who took care of us for the 4 days.
Born in Aichi Prefecture in 1966 and currently resides there. Became interested in photography when he was a junior in high school. He has been taking photographs mainly of natural scenery and wildlife, which he has loved since he was a child. Currently, rather than taking “pretty, cute, and cool” photos, he focuses on taking photos of scenes that have a human touch and environmental scenes that show the relationship with human life. Ultimately, he aims for “photographs that have a smell. His work has been published in photo collections and exhibitions, and used in magazines, illustrated books, and calendars. His photographic collections include “Raicho Korokoro” and others.
*Please contact us, Saiyu Travel for arrangements for wildlife and bird photography tours in Japan.
This winter tour report was written by the Bird Photographer Gaku Tozuka, during the “Crane Photography Tour of Tsurui Village” that took place January 10 -13, 2022.
Hokkaido this winter saw heavy snowfall. I was so nervous as I watched the weather forecast, but when we arrived in the Kushiro area, the weather was fine. We immediately visited the Ito Crane Sanctuary upon my arrival. I had prepared boxed lunches (bento) for the participants of the tour, so they could fully enjoy the good weather and their photography without having to worry about stopping for lunch. As soon as we arrived, I gave a quick orientation with pointers about recommended photo spots, and then everyone was given free time to take their own photos. However, I was nearby to offer support on what camera settings to use, while also keeping an eye on the wind so you could predict possible flight patterns of the Red-crowned Cranes we had come to photograph. The participants asked if we would see the “Courtship dance” but unfortunately, it is still a bit before the breeding season, so I replied we would have to leave it to our luck.
We moved to a different spot so I could explain ahead of time, the challenges of getting good shots of cranes flying in the evening sky as the sun was setting. I had gotten some local information ahead of time that there were many cranes that fly to roost early, and we wanted to get the photos of the cranes flying with the clear skies until sunset. It is quite difficult to predict the number of cranes and where they might fly in from because it is always different every day, but it seemed to me that all the participants could get good photos.
The next morning, we had good weather and left the lodging at 6am. I took the group to get photos of the cranes as they were roosting. Every moment was magical with the soft dusting of rime ice that had formed on the branches of the trees by the riverside, and the changing colors of the sky.
The distance to the flock was quite far but they were visible as well.
Suddenly a bird plunged into the surface of the water, and as it emerged again, it turned out to be a White-tailed Eagle! I wonder, perhaps it was aiming for some leftover salmon carcass? After a little time passed, we heard the shrill bird calling “Kyara Kyara,” it was a medium-sized bird, which was the Crested Kingfisher! Then, there was a very large bird who appeared, and it was a Steller’s Sea Eagle!
Of course, I had my cameras set to slower shutter speeds for capturing the shots of the slow-moving cranes, so when I turned to get photos of the other birds, I could not get the shots. I guess you cannot kill two birds with one stone, or camera in this case!
After that, I changed my camera settings to capture the Red-crowned Cranes as they approached our position. But after I did that, I realized the large bird flying towards me was a Whooper Swan, not a Crane.
By the time 8am rolled around, the car had returned to pick us up and everyone was thoroughly chilled by the -20 below Celsius (-4°F) and ready to get warmed up.
Whooper swan at Setsuri river, from Otowa bridge
Photography & Text : Gaku TOZUKA (Bird photographer)
Visit: 2022, 10-13 JAN, Tsurui Village, Hokkaido
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Profile:Gaku Tozuka (戸塚 学)
Born in Aichi Prefecture in 1966 and currently resides there. Became interested in photography when he was a junior in high school. He has been taking photographs mainly of natural scenery and wildlife, which he has loved since he was a child. Currently, rather than taking “pretty, cute, and cool” photos, he focuses on taking photos of scenes that have a human touch and environmental scenes that show the relationship with human life. Ultimately, he aims for “photographs that have a smell. His work has been published in photo collections and exhibitions, and used in magazines, illustrated books, and calendars. His photographic collections include “Raicho Korokoro” and others.
*Please contact us, Saiyu Travel for arrangements for wildlife and bird photography tours in Japan.