Here are some of the birds we observed on Teuri Island in May 2024.
This is a busy time of year for migratory birds on the island. One week, one species of bird is in certain parts of the island, the next week it is nowhere to be found and another appears in its place. Teuri Island in May happens to be on a migratory route, making it a real joy to explore every day.
First are the birds that arrive in early May, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom.
Cherry blossoms bloom in May on Teuri Island. A Japanese white-eye and Eurasian bullfinch were hard at work looking for food.
In coniferous forests, blue-colored birds such as the blue-and-white flycatcher and red-flanked bluetails shine.
In a slightly more open area, we spotted a hawfinch.
The Eurasian siskin, common redpoll, rosefinch, and brambling also come to the island to feed, as seeds here are plentiful. The brambling can be seen throughout the island, but they only stay for about a week.
We observed red-necked phalarope in a puddle on the shoreline.
A purple heron made a visit to the back of a house.
In the meadow, the call of the common cuckoo echoes out.
We also spotted harlequin ducks along the shoreline.
Birds visit Teuri Island one after another! This year, rosy starlings also dropped by!
From the second half of May to the first half of June, birds that come to Teuri Island to breed are busy searching for mates and preparing their nests.
It is also a relatively easy season to observe the latham’s snipe which arrive from Australia without making any stops to feed along the way.
In May, when many migratory birds arrive on Teuri Island, the variety of birds that can be observed changes almost daily. Visit Teuri Island in May for a chance to meet those beautiful birds!
On April 15, 2024, the first herring spawn in 70 years was observed on Teuri Island, Hokkaido. The islanders were excited to photograph and then harvest the herring. At an island inn, stewed herring and herring roe were served. No one on the island today knows what it was like in the heyday of the herring harvest.
Here is some of the wildlife we observed on Teuri Island in the spring.
On the route from Haboro Port to Teuri Island, black-throated divers (surprisingly common), ancient murrelets, rhinoceros auklets, and spectacled guillemots were seen.
Eight species of seabirds breed on Teuri Island: the common guillemot, spectacled guillemot, rhinoceros auklet, black-tailed gull, slaty-backed gull, Japanese cormorant (Temminck’s cormorant), pelagic cormorant, and ancient murrelet. By April, they have already begun their breeding season.
Black-tailed gulls are breeding and expanding their territory on the Kurosaki coast, and around April 20, mating (or pseudo-mating) has already started taking place throughout the area.
When I looked at the Japanese cormorant breeding site from the seabird observation hut, they were already feeding their chicks. The Japanese cormorant is a seabird that starts breeding early, and it seems to be getting even earlier. Slaty-backed gulls were breeding and mating on the upper slope of the bluff. There were many rhinoceros auklet nesting sites in this area as well.
Red-breasted mergansers are seen near Maehama Fishing Port. Red-breasted mergansers migrate to Teuri Island as winter visitors. They will soon be heading north as well.
And then there are the harlequin ducks. They are the most common ducks on Teuri Island. I often saw them near Maehama Fishing Port and Lombaba Beach. Harlequin ducks can be seen all year round on Teuri Island, but they are definitely easier to see—and more beautiful—during the winter months.
On one morning when the wind had calmed a bit, we went out to the sea on the Keimafuri-Gou, a small boat operated by island photographer Takaki Terasawa. The view from the boat was that of Teuri Island in spring!
A steller sea lion we met as soon as we left the harbor. They migrate to Hokkaido from the Kuril Islands in winter. This young male was all alone. Teuri Island, where herring now spawn, attracts wildlife as well as people. It is a symbol of the richness of the sea.
From the boat, we observed the black-tailed gull breeding grounds on the Kurosaki coast and then headed in the direction of Akaiwa. We did not see any common guillemots at the breeding site, but we did see four common guillemots flying over the sea in the vicinity.
The reef was teeming with some very dry and fluffy spotted seals.
The beautiful sound of spectacled guillemots chirping at each other echoes out to sea. On a rocky shore, an adorable pair is seen in a courtship gesture.
Lastly, please take a look at this herring spawn, photographed on April 15 by the staff of Saiyu Travel’s Teuri Office (Teuri Island Naturelive).
Spawning occurs in spring, when females lay their eggs on seaweed in shallow waters less than one meter deep, and males release sperm to fertilize the eggs. This spawning causes the seawater to become white and murky.
A herring dish served at the Yorozuya Ryokan( 萬谷旅館)where I stayed. The fresh herring was so tasty.
I myself had just returned from a trip to Sitka, Alaska, in search of the wildlife that gathers there during the herring spawn. In Alaska, the “Herring Run” is a very popular wildlife tour where you can encounter humpback whales, gray whales, bald eagles, steller sea lions, and other creatures that congregate in the waters of Sitka.
Will Japan’s herring spawn one day be referred to as Hokkaido’s “Herring Run”? Before that, it is important to first restore the richness of the sea where herring come to spawn every year. I sincerely hope that the herring will return next year too.
Image & Text: Mariko SAWADA & Midori KUDO
Observation: April 2024, Teuri Island, Hokkaido
Teuri Island is a small island with a circumference of about 12 km, and as of 2024, it has a population of approximately 250 people. Despite its size, Teuri Island is considered a “paradise for seabirds,” with an estimated breeding population of around one million birds. Such a sanctuary for seabirds is unique within Japan, as even the neighboring Yagishiri Island, which is about 3 km to the east and of similar size, lacks a significant seabird population.
The reason behind this phenomenon can be attributed to the maritime climate around Teuri Island, particularly during winter when it is influenced by the Siberian high-pressure system from the continent. As a result, the island is continuously exposed to northwestern winds. Over millions of years, these prevailing winds have shaped the landscape, forming cliffs predominantly on one side of the island.
The red lines indicate the original location of the island.
The arrows indicate the direction of the wind. Cliffs were formed on the northwest part of the island where the wind directly hits.
Cliffs, which are among the most challenging terrains for mammals, including humans, become easily accessible for birds capable of flying. Consequently, seabirds, which primarily reside at sea, are not well-adapted to terrestrial life, leading them to choose cliff habitats for breeding where their predators find it difficult to access.
The slaty-backed gull, which breeds on cliffs.
The pelagic cormorant and the black-tailed gull, which breed on cliffs.
The most abundant breeding location for rhinoceros auklets on Teuri Island is on land with soil situated atop the cliffs. Rhinoceros auklets choose to nest on land, despite the presence of many predators, as it becomes harder for predators to spot them during the evening twilight when they return to their nests all at once at sunset. If there were tall trees around the nesting area, they would be at a higher risk of colliding with them in the dark. Therefore, they prefer nesting in areas without tall trees.
Thanks to the island’s strong winds, which prevent the growth of tall trees, Teuri Island provides the ideal conditions for rhinoceros auklets. They have a habitat where approximately 400,000 breeding pairs thrive, making it the world’s No. 1 breeding site for these birds.
Rhinoceros auklets return to their nests by diving into treeless grasslands.
In this way, a miraculous convergence of ideal conditions for seabirds has resulted in the creation of Teuri Island, where numerous seabirds breed. During the seabird breeding season, boat tours are also available, allowing visitors to observe seabirds and geological formations from beneath the cliffs.
The Spectacled Guillemot: A Timeless Favorite among Teuri Island’s Seabirds
The Spectacled Guillemot, known as “ケイマフリ” (Keimafuri) in Japanese, holds an unwavering popularity on Teuri Island. Its name is derived from the Ainu word “ケマフレ” (Kema-fure), meaning “red-legged.”
True to its name, the Spectacled Guillemot not only possesses red legs but also has a similar crimson color inside its mouth. While observing its courtship behavior on rocky shores, it display its legs while opening its mouth to court potential mates, they leave viewers mesmerized by its stunning beauty.
Compared to other Alcidae birds inhabiting Teuri Island, the Spectacled Guillemot excels at taking off from the water’s surface. It performs a skillful take-off by running on the water while building momentum before finally lifting off. (On the other hand, the other two species, Common Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet, perform take-offs by half-swimming and flapping their wings on the water’s surface.)
The sight of “Teuri Blue,” the mesmerizing color of the sea, combined with the radiant red legs of the Spectacled Guillemot, is incredibly beautiful. Many visitors come to Teuri Island solely to witness this enchanting spectacle.
Furthermore, during the latter part of the breeding season, around late June, you can also observe the Spectacled Guillemots carrying food in their beaks to feed their chicks. This heartwarming sight showcases the dedication and care these birds have for their offspring, adding to the enchanting experience of witnessing their behavior on Teuri Island.
The diverse range of prey that the Spectacled Guillemot carries, such as larval fish and small sculpins, adds to its allure and charm. Observing these graceful birds transporting various types of food is truly captivating.
It’s wonderful to hear that Terasawa Takaki, a photographer residing on Teuri Island, has been so captivated by the charm of the Spectacled Guillemot that he created a Japanese sake named after them and even adorned his own boat with illustrations of the bird. His passion for these birds is truly inspiring.
I wholeheartedly agree with the invitation for everyone to come and visit Teuri Island to experience the magic of meeting the Spectacled Guillemots in person. It is undoubtedly an unforgettable experience that will leave visitors in awe of the island’s natural beauty and its remarkable avian residents.
Teuri Island is located at 44 degrees north latitude, so during the period from spring to summer, the daylight hours are long, and the sky becomes completely dark around 21:00 (9:00 PM). In the morning, it starts to get bright around 3:00 AM, which means that the nocturnal creatures are spending super busy throughout the night.
Speaking of nocturnal creatures, one cannot fail to mention the owl family. In the year 2023, the breeding of the Long-eared Owl (トラフズク Torahuzuku in Japanese) has been confirmed on the island.
During the early spring, we confirmed the presence of three chicks, but from the first half of July onwards, we could only find two. It is suspected that one of them might have died at some point. This experience made us realize the true harshness of nature.
Furthermore, the Kiwi of Japan is called a “ヤマシギ” (Yamashigi), which refers to the Eurasian Woodcock, also inhabits Teuri Island.
The life style of the Eurasian Woodcock is similar to the Kiwi of New Zealand, it is a nocturnal creature and preys on worms and other creatures found near the ground. However, the Eurasian Woodcock has the advantage of being able to fly, which allows it to have a broader range of habitats. It has numerous holes in its beak with nerve endings, enabling it to sense movements and detect prey while inserting its beak into the ground.
Additionally, on warm nights, the only snake species found on Teuri Island, the Japanese Mamushi Viper (マムシ: Mamushi, also known as the Japanese pit viper), also becomes more active.
The snake, often referred to as a nocturnal creature, on Teuri Island, might also be quite active during daytime, especially in the cooler seasons like early spring. Despite being a reptile, it gives birth to live offspring instead of laying eggs. This adaptation might be what allowed it to efficiently reproduce in the fluctuating temperatures of Teuri Island, making it the only snake species on the island.
The Japanese Mamushi Viper is the most well-known venomous snake in Japan. The image of “Mamushi = danger” is deeply ingrained, and this might be a reason why drivers tend to be less aware of avoiding them compared to other creatures. As a result, during the season, I witnessed numerous instances where these vipers were hit and killed by vehicles.
Also, the Japanese tree frog (ニホンアマガエル Nihonamagaeru), the only amphibian species found on Teuri Island, becomes active during the night.
Due to its small size, approximately 12km in circumference, Teuri Island has limited sources of stable freshwater, making it challenging for amphibians, which constantly require water, to find suitable habitats. However, despite the scarcity of such environments, numerous individuals of the Japanese tree frog can be found breeding near locations such as rainwater accumulated in abandoned ships and in small springs close to the coastline.
Furthermore, after observing the nocturnal activities, one can enjoy the breathtaking sight of a beautiful starry sky. On clear nights, shooting stars can be observed almost without fail.
When you visit Teuri Island, please make sure to look up at the night sky before you leave.
Teuri Island is the only breeding site of the Common Guillemot in Japan.
At one time the birds’ population was reduced to 13 birds, but their numbers are now recovering.
This year again, Common Guillemots are seen bringing food back to the nest. Bringing food back to the nest means that chicks are born, and the circle of life continues for these species, which is a very comforting thing to know! The first confirmation was made on 8th of July, so it seems that the Common Guillemot’s breeding season is the same as in previous years.
A project was underway on Teuri Island to use decoys to entice them back to the island due to a decline in their population.
This year, the caves that have been used as breeding grounds have become very cramped with decoys and real Common Guillemots, like a crowded train in Tokyo.
This may be why Common Guillemots have been frequently seen perched on rocks other than the breeding caves since the beginning of July this year.
Pelagic Cormorants also breed on this rocky area and congregate in large numbers in the adjacent hollows. This spot is not visible from land, and can only be observed from a seabird watching boat.
Observation of Common Guillemots went well, as they have been seen flying in groups and floating in the sea in numbers of up to 50.
The Common Guillemot population, which was reduced to 13 birds in 2002, has been steadily increasing and now exceeds 100 birds. However, there is only one breeding site in Teuri Island so far and no increase in breeding sites has been confirmed, so we hope that the number of breeding sites will increase next time, as there is concern that the population may plummet if there is only one site and natural enemies appear.
Photo & text : Wataru HIMENO
Observation : May-Jul 2023, Teuri Island, Hokkaido
We have summarized the features of three species of birds in the Auk family that are popular amongst birders visiting Teuri Island: Spectacled Guillemot, Common Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet!
(1) Carrying caught fish with their beaks.
The main part of the observation is watching birds bringing fish into their beaks to feed their chicks. This is a common feature of the Auk family, as they are able to swallow fish while swimming in the water and cannot spit out the fish once swallowed to feed the chicks. Hence they fly with several fish in their beak to bring the catch back to the nest.
On Teuri Island, night tours are held every evening during the season (from end of April to the end of July) to observe the 800,000 Rhinoceros Auklets returning to their nests in the evening.
Unlike many other species, Rhinoceros Auklet feed their chicks only once a day, when they finally return home in the evening. Therefore, there are several fish for them to bring into their beaks!
(2) Their wings are short and they need to run on the surface of the sea to fly away
When diving in the sea, the Auk family swim by flapping their wings underwater. For this reason, their wings are shorter and smaller than those of other birds of the same size, so that they do not create resistance in the water.
The size of a Rhinoceros Auklet’s wings clearly differs when compared to the size of a Black-tailed gull’s wings.
Due to smaller wings, the Auk family birds do not have high flight capabilities and flap their wings more frequently in the air than bird species of the same size. They also need to run on the surface of the sea to gain momentum in order to take off from the sea into air.
Among the most beautiful is the red-footed Spectacled Guillemot, which runs along the surface of the sea. You can only see this view up close from aboard a small seabird-viewing boat. Please come and see this beautiful moment when you visit Teuri Island!
Close-up seabird photography from the observation boat.
A sea birds observation boat in the ‘Teuri blue’ sea.
Common Murre or Common Guillemot has a distinctive penguin-like appearance due to its legs positioned at the back of its body. In Japan, they breed only in one place, a cliff cave near the red rocks on Teuri Island. The breeding site of the cave can only be observed from the boat, but they can sometimes be seen floating above the sea from the Akaiwa Observatory. In 2002 their numbers were reduced to 13, but now(2023) exceed 100 and is steadily increasing.
Spectacled guillemot Cepphus carbo
Spectacled Guillemots, with their very cute red legs and red mouth, breed in the crevices of the cliffs that stretch from south-west to north of Teuri Island. The moment when the Spectacled Guillemot takes off after running on the surface of the water is one of the most beautiful moments, when the colour of the sea, known as ‘Teuri Blue‘ and the bright red legs of the Spectacled Guillemot shine brightly. Take chance to watch it up close from a small seabird-watching boat that run s early in the morning (reservation is a must).
Rhinoceros auklet Cerorhinca monocerata
As its name suggests, Rhinoceros Auklet has a rhinoceros horn-like projection that appears during the breeding season from April to July. It is said that there are currently 800,000-1,000,000 rhinoceros breeding on Teuri Island, and the sight of them all returning to their nests at dusk is the one to behold. Because they dig holes in the ground to build their nests, which is quite unusual for bird species, photographers can observe them relatively closely when they return home.
Ancient murrelet Synthliboramphus antiquus
On Teuri Island, they are seen every year from late May to early June. Several birds form groups up to 10 birds and feed on zooplankton and other organisms. Because they are very small and frequently dive, it is very difficult to observe them on days with high wave swell. It is said that they breed only on Teuri Island in Japan – take the rare chance to capture them here.
Pelagic Cormorant Phalacrocorax pelagicus
This cormorant normally lives in the open sea. During the breeding season when they come to Teuri Island, their entire bodies are covered with a amazingly beautiful sheen, and the base of its beak is stained red. They can build their nests in small bumps and hollows in cliffs, using saliva and mud to harden very fine nesting material, so natural enemies such as mammals cannot approach their nests.
Japanese cormorant Phalacrocorax capillatus
A species of cormorant widespread across Japan. During the breeding season, its head turns white. Cormorants hunt deep underwater where visibility is poor, so they have blue eyes that are easy to see when viewing in the dark. They have a low oil content on their body surface to facilitate swimming easily underwater, and can be observed spreading their wings on rocks to dry their bodies after swimming.
Black-tailed gull Larus crassirostris
This species of gull is characterised by its yellow legs and tail with a black band. On Teuri Island, their numbers have increased dramatically in recent years, with the estimated number of nests doubling from two years ago in 2021 to around 5,000 now in 2023. Kurosaki Beach (literally “Black-cape beach” in Japanese), a major breeding ground for Black-tailed gulls, is often called ‘Shirasaki Beach (“White-cape beach”)’ because its black rocks have turned completely white from their excrements.
Slaty-backed gull Larus schistisagus
A large gull with pink legs and a bright white tail. It reigns at the top of the biological pyramid on Teuri Island, and will swallow an adult Rhinoceros Auklet up to 38 cm long awhole. Black-tailed gull chicks, pit vipers and sea urchins are other favorites. If you see sea urchin shells lying around town, they are often the remains of the Slaty-backed gull’s meal.
This Slaty-backed gull, just after swallowing a whole Rhinoceros Auklet, has its wings overflowing from its mouth and its chest is swollen with Rhinoceros Auklet!
In early July of 2021, the “Teuri Island Seabird Class” was led by nature photographer, Takaki Terasawa, who lives on Teuri Island. The tour was 4 days and 3 nights, with a full syllabus, to learn about the seabirds, take pictures of them, and learn more about the environmental issues they face, and to just enjoy seeing the Island itself.
During the stay, on a clam morning, Mr. Terasawa captained the ship named “Keimafuri-Gou” for our seabird observation cruise. (Keimafuri is the Japanese name for the Spectacled Guillemot.) During this season, daybreak was at 4am, so by the time we left the dock at 6am, it was already bright out. As we pulled out from Maehama Fishing Port, we could see the Rhinoceros Auklets floating around us in the water here and there. We headed out towards the direction of Akaiwa (Red Rock.)
As we neared Akaiwa (Red Rock) I could see the Spectacled Guillemots flying! They are a seabird that only breeds on the coasts of the Sea of Okhotsk, on the Kamchatka Peninsula, and in Japan, they are only found in Aomori Prefecture and Hokkaido. So it is so rare to see them in the world and even more rare to be able to see their breeding grounds.
Just around Akaiwa (Red Rock) and Byobuiwa (Folding Screen Rock) there were so many Spectacled Guillemots. Their appearance makes the name pretty easy to understand, as their wonderful eye rings makes them look as if they are “wearing glasses.” Some of the Kuril Island’s Pigeon Guillemots with their white eyes where worriedly looking at our boat “Is that the Keimafuri?” But the thick white-ringed eyes of the Spectacled Guillemots were really superb.
The Spectacled Guillemots that were sitting on the rocks. According to Mr. Terasawa, these rocky areas are very significant areas for these seabirds. There have been various behaviors while observing them here, as well as even seeing birds mate on this rocky outcrop.
I could also hear the loud calls of the Spectacled Guillemots from the rocks. It feels like I could just watch them forever, as they are engaged in their conversations out there.
Over here also, it’s as if the other birds are watching these two birds at the top converse.
This is a splendid pair. The breast feathers of the bird on the right are unique.
Then, as if it is timed, they all take off in unison. The red legs of the Guillemots are kicking at the surface of the water as they take flight.
Captain Terasawa’s vessel “Keimafuri-Gou” is a small 6-seater. Getting that eye-level view, is possible only on the Keimafuri-Gou! And the name of the boat on the side, was beautifully hand-painted by Mr. Terasawa himself!
This is a bottle of Junmai Sake sold at “Umi no Uchukan” (Teuri Visitor Center) is named after the Spectacled Guillemots as well. The “Keimafuri” sake is 100% made from Hokkaido grown rice in Asahikawa by farmer Takasago Shuzo. And the Guillemot pair on the label is a drawing made by illustrator Hiroshi Abe. It is a very nice label.
After seeing the wild birds in the morning, we enjoyed the evening with sea urchin caught locally and some delicious Keimafuri Sake at night…
To close the trip, we had a tasty local flavor of “Teuri’s Barbecue.” This is the peak season for the harvest of purple sea urchins! By the way, the meat in the background is “the phantom Suffolk lamb” from nearby Yagishiri Island. I could receive the “fortunes” of Yagishiri Island also!
Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: July 2021, Teuri island, Hokkaido
In the beginning of July, we operated a tour called the “Teuri Island Seabird Class” lead by Takaki Terasawa, a nature photographer living on Teuri Island. First thing in the morning, we took his boat the “Keimafuri-Go” and headed out to sea. (Keimafuri is the Japanese name for the Spectacled Guillemot.) We went to the rocky outcrop near Aka iwa (Red Rock) where the Rhinoceros Auklet like to gather.
These birds are said to be widely distributed along the North Pacific Seas, from Japan’s northern coast to the Kuril Islands, Aleutian Islands, and towards Alaska, but it is not easy to get close enough to see them. It is quite rare to find places where you can observe them actually!
Teuri Island is the largest breeding area in the world for these Auklets, and here you can see them when the adult birds display their “horns” (and pretty easily to access at that!) so this spot is quite a precious place.
The “horns” of the Auklets are a special growth that appears on their beaks during the breeding season on adult birds. This horn is where they get the name “Rhinoceros Auklet.” This protrusion is not seen on young birds or non-breeding birds. The first time I saw a Rhinocerous Auklet was super exciting! I happened to be on a sperm whale cruise in the Nemuro Strait and we knew the sighting was so rare.
The outcrop that is near the tidal areas of Akaiwa (Red Rock). For some reason the birds are always trying to land on this rock and there seems to be some important social interactions happening there. Some of them display some territorial behaviors and chase away other birds to keep them off of the rocky structure.
This group of 4 birds seem to be involved in a conversation about something.
Dynamic moves afoot!
These two are looking quite, um, friendly?
These two are also having a good relationship as well?
These two are an item, it seems!
There are so many different things going on in this place, I could just watch them for a long time! It is an important place for the Rhinoceros Auklets.
The view you see, looking down from the Akaiwa Observatory. You can see how all the Auklets are gathering around this single rock outcrop.
While I was observing them, they suddenly, all took off and flew away at once. This morning, we could have stayed watching them all day long, watching the interesting interactions of the Auklets. In 2021 their breeding situation was a little concerning, so I pray that as many chicks as possible could fledge from this breeding area.
Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: July 2021, Teuri Island, Hokkaido