Ochishi and Kiritappu in Early Summer

In early summer, seabirds in breeding plumage and sea animals can be seen on the Ochishi cruise and at Cape Kiritappu, and beautiful flowers and grasses can also be found in the marshlands along the way.

Ochiishi Cruise and Surrounding Waters

From Cape Nosappu to Cape Erimo, part of the cold Oyashio (Kuril) Current flows along the coast, especially from Nemuro to Cape Kiritappu, which is the area with the lowest sea water temperature in Japan. As a result, tufted puffins, red-faced cormorants, and other seabirds that are difficult to see outside of this area breed here. The uninhabited islands of Yururi Island and Moyururi Island in Ochiishi are especially important breeding grounds for seabirds, and both landing on the islands and fishing in the surrounding area are prohibited. Currently, seabird observation by permitted fishing boats is operated in some areas.

To visit the waters of Yururi Island and Moyururi Island, you must take a Ochiishi cruise operated by the fishing association. The cruise takes about 2.5 hours on a local fishing boat and involves observing birds in the surrounding waters. Since this is a fishing boat, the cruise can be quite bumpy and subject to waves depending on the weather, so please make preparations to deal with seasickness, assure your belongings are adequately waterproofed, and bring warm clothes.

The following is a list of seabirds and marine animals that can be seen.

Rhinoceros Auklet
Spectacled Guillemot
Pigeon Guillemot
Tufted Puffin
Japanese Murrelet
Pacific Loon
Red-faced Cormorant
Pelagic Cormorant
White-tailed Sea Eagle
Harbor Seal
Sea Otter

 

Cape Kiritappu and the Surrounding Wetlands

Cape Kiritappu is a breeding ground for sea otters and many seabirds can be seen here. If you are lucky, you may see tufted puffins and harbor seals. Since this area is accessible by car, it can be an alternative destination in case the Ochiishi cruise is cancelled due to bad weather or lack of passengers.

In the Cape Kiritappu wetlands near Cape Kiritappu, large colonies of daylily, hare’s-tail cottongrass, and other grasses and flowers can be seen, as well as many birds that prefer the grasslands. In addition, along the road to Ochiishi, there are several small wetlands and grasslands suitable for flower and bird watching. Here you can also expect to see red-crowned cranes with their chicks.

Below are some of the birds and flowers that can be seen in the wetlands. Please refer to the seabirds at Cape Kiritappu, as they are similar to those on the Ochiishi cruise mentioned above.

Kiritappu Wetland(Hokkaido Daylilies)
Kushiro Jacobs Ladder
Black Lily
Siberian Rubythroat
Amur Stonechat
Long-tailed Rosefinch
Reed_Bunting
Latham’s Snipe
Red-crowned Crane
Ezo Sika Deer

 

Photo & text : Hiromichi HAYASHI

Observation : Ochiishi & Kiritappu, Nemuro, Hokkaido

*Contact  us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We operate a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko and Teuri Island. both are perfect location for wildlife lover.

*Youtube : Wildlife of Japan

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Reasons Why Teuri Island Became a Sanctuary for Seabirds

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

Teuri Island is a small island with a circumference of about 12 km, and as of 2024, it has a population of approximately 250 people. Despite its size, Teuri Island is considered a “paradise for seabirds,” with an estimated breeding population of around one million birds. Such a sanctuary for seabirds is unique within Japan, as even the neighboring Yagishiri Island, which is about 3 km to the east and of similar size, lacks a significant seabird population.

The reason behind this phenomenon can be attributed to the maritime climate around Teuri Island, particularly during winter when it is influenced by the Siberian high-pressure system from the continent. As a result, the island is continuously exposed to northwestern winds. Over millions of years, these prevailing winds have shaped the landscape, forming cliffs predominantly on one side of the island.

from Google Map

The red lines indicate the original location of the island.

from Google Map

The arrows indicate the direction of the wind. Cliffs were formed on the northwest part of the island where the wind directly hits.

Cliffs, which are among the most challenging terrains for mammals, including humans, become easily accessible for birds capable of flying. Consequently, seabirds, which primarily reside at sea, are not well-adapted to terrestrial life, leading them to choose cliff habitats for breeding where their predators find it difficult to access.

The slaty-backed gull, which breeds on cliffs.

The pelagic cormorant and the black-tailed gull, which breed on cliffs.

The most abundant breeding location for rhinoceros auklets on Teuri Island is on land with soil situated atop the cliffs. Rhinoceros auklets choose to nest on land, despite the presence of many predators, as it becomes harder for predators to spot them during the evening twilight when they return to their nests all at once at sunset. If there were tall trees around the nesting area, they would be at a higher risk of colliding with them in the dark. Therefore, they prefer nesting in areas without tall trees.

Thanks to the island’s strong winds, which prevent the growth of tall trees, Teuri Island provides the ideal conditions for rhinoceros auklets. They have a habitat where approximately 400,000 breeding pairs thrive, making it the world’s No. 1 breeding site for these birds.

Rhinoceros auklets return to their nests by diving into treeless grasslands.

In this way, a miraculous convergence of ideal conditions for seabirds has resulted in the creation of Teuri Island, where numerous seabirds breed. During the seabird breeding season, boat tours are also available, allowing visitors to observe seabirds and geological formations from beneath the cliffs.

Photo & text : Wataru HIMENO

★ Visit our web site of  TEURI ISLAND.

Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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The Spectacled Guillemot : A Timeless Favorite among Teuri Island’s Seabirds

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

 The Spectacled Guillemot: A Timeless Favorite among Teuri Island’s Seabirds

The Spectacled Guillemot, known as “ケイマフリ” (Keimafuri) in Japanese, holds an unwavering popularity on Teuri Island. Its name is derived from the Ainu word “ケマフレ” (Kema-fure), meaning “red-legged.”

True to its name, the Spectacled Guillemot not only possesses red legs but also has a similar crimson color inside its mouth. While observing its courtship behavior on rocky shores, it display its legs while opening its mouth to court potential mates, they leave viewers mesmerized by its stunning beauty.

Compared to other Alcidae birds inhabiting Teuri Island, the Spectacled Guillemot excels at taking off from the water’s surface. It performs a skillful take-off by running on the water while building momentum before finally lifting off. (On the other hand, the other two species, Common Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet, perform take-offs by half-swimming and flapping their wings on the water’s surface.)

The sight of “Teuri Blue,” the mesmerizing color of the sea, combined with the radiant red legs of the Spectacled Guillemot, is incredibly beautiful. Many visitors come to Teuri Island solely to witness this enchanting spectacle.

Furthermore, during the latter part of the breeding season, around late June, you can also observe the Spectacled Guillemots carrying food in their beaks to feed their chicks. This heartwarming sight showcases the dedication and care these birds have for their offspring, adding to the enchanting experience of witnessing their behavior on Teuri Island.

The diverse range of prey that the Spectacled Guillemot carries, such as larval fish  and small sculpins, adds to its allure and charm. Observing these graceful birds transporting various types of food is truly captivating.

It’s wonderful to hear that Terasawa Takaki, a photographer residing on Teuri Island, has been so captivated by the charm of the Spectacled Guillemot  that he created a Japanese sake named after them and even adorned his own boat with illustrations of the bird. His passion for these birds is truly inspiring.

Sake – ケイマフリ=Spectacled Guillemot
Takaki Terasawa’s boat ケイマフリ号 name after Spectacled Guillemot

I wholeheartedly agree with the invitation for everyone to come and visit Teuri Island to experience the magic of meeting the Spectacled Guillemots in person. It is undoubtedly an unforgettable experience that will leave visitors in awe of the island’s natural beauty and its remarkable avian residents.

 

Image & text : Wataru HIMENO

★ Visit our web site of  TEURI ISLAND.

Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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The key highlights for three most popular sea birds on Teuri Island (Spectacled Guillemot, Common Guillemot and Rhinoceros Guillemot)

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

We have summarized the features of three species of birds in the Auk family that are popular amongst birders visiting Teuri Island: Spectacled Guillemot, Common Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet!

(1) Carrying caught fish with their beaks.

The main part of the observation is watching birds bringing fish into their beaks to feed their chicks. This is a common feature of the Auk family, as they are able to swallow fish while swimming in the water and cannot spit out the fish once swallowed to feed the chicks. Hence they fly with several fish in their beak to bring the catch back to the nest.
On Teuri Island, night tours are held every evening during the season (from end of April to the end of July) to observe the 800,000 Rhinoceros Auklets returning to their nests in the evening.

Common Guillemot flies with fish in its beak.

Unlike many other species, Rhinoceros Auklet feed their chicks only once a day, when they finally return home in the evening. Therefore, there are several fish for them to bring into their beaks!

 

(2) Their wings are short and they need to run on the surface of the sea to fly away

When diving in the sea, the Auk family swim by flapping their wings underwater. For this reason, their wings are shorter and smaller than those of other birds of the same size, so that they do not create resistance in the water.

Spectacled Guillemot’s wings

The size of a Rhinoceros Auklet’s wings clearly differs when compared to the size of a Black-tailed gull’s wings.

Due to smaller wings, the Auk family birds do not have high flight capabilities and flap their wings more frequently in the air than bird species of the same size. They also need to run on the surface of the sea to gain momentum in order to take off from the sea into air.

Among the most beautiful is the red-footed Spectacled Guillemot, which runs along the surface of the sea. You can only see this view up close from aboard a small seabird-viewing boat. Please come and see this beautiful moment when you visit Teuri Island!

Close-up seabird photography from the observation boat.

A sea birds observation boat in the ‘Teuri blue’ sea.

 

Photo & text : Wataru HIMENO

Observation : May-Jul 2023, Teuri Islaand, Hokkaido

★ Visit our web site of  TEURI ISLAND.

Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

 

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Seabirds breeding on Teuri Island (Hokkaido)

Common murre, Common guillemot Uria aalge 

Common Murre or Common Guillemot has a distinctive penguin-like appearance due to its legs positioned at the back of its body. In Japan, they breed only in one place, a cliff cave near the red rocks on Teuri Island. The breeding site of the cave can only be observed from the boat, but they can sometimes be seen floating above the sea from the Akaiwa Observatory. In 2002 their numbers were reduced to 13, but now(2023) exceed 100 and is steadily increasing.

Common Guillemot
Common Guillemot

Spectacled guillemot  Cepphus carbo 

Spectacled Guillemots, with their very cute red legs and red mouth, breed in the crevices of the cliffs that stretch from south-west to north of Teuri Island. The moment when the Spectacled Guillemot takes off after running on the surface of the water is one of the most beautiful moments, when the colour of the sea, known as ‘Teuri Blue‘ and the bright red legs of the Spectacled Guillemot shine brightly. Take chance to watch it up close from a small seabird-watching boat that run s early in the morning (reservation is a must).

Spectacled Guillemot running on the surface of the sea, with beautiful red legs
Spectacled Guillemot, observed from Akaiwa Observatory

 Rhinoceros auklet  Cerorhinca monocerata 

As its name suggests, Rhinoceros Auklet has a rhinoceros horn-like projection that appears during the breeding season from April to July. It is said that there are currently 800,000-1,000,000 rhinoceros breeding on Teuri Island, and the sight of them all returning to their nests at dusk is the one to behold. Because they dig holes in the ground to build their nests, which is quite unusual for bird species, photographers can observe them relatively closely when they return home.

Rhinoceros Auklet returning nest in the setting sun
Rhinoceros Auklet carrying fish to its chicks waiting in the nest

Ancient murrelet  Synthliboramphus antiquus 

On Teuri Island, they are seen every year from late May to early June. Several birds form groups up to 10 birds and feed on zooplankton and other organisms. Because they are very small and frequently dive, it is very difficult to observe them on days with high wave swell. It is said that they breed only on Teuri Island in Japan – take the rare chance to capture them here.

Ancient murrelet
Ancient murrelet

Pelagic Cormorant  Phalacrocorax pelagicus

This cormorant normally lives in the open sea. During the breeding season when they come to Teuri Island, their entire bodies are covered with a amazingly beautiful sheen, and the base of its beak is stained red. They can build their nests in small bumps and hollows in cliffs, using saliva and mud to harden very fine nesting material, so natural enemies such as mammals cannot approach their nests.

Pelagic Cormorant at nesting site, with chicks
Pelagic Cormorant carrying nesting material

Japanese cormorant  Phalacrocorax capillatus 

A species of cormorant widespread across Japan. During the breeding season, its head turns white. Cormorants hunt deep underwater where visibility is poor, so they have blue eyes that are easy to see when viewing in the dark. They have a low oil content on their body surface to facilitate swimming easily underwater, and can be observed spreading their wings on rocks to dry their bodies after swimming.

Japanese cormorant
Japanese cormorant

Black-tailed gull  Larus crassirostris

This species of gull is characterised by its yellow legs and tail with a black band. On Teuri Island, their numbers have increased dramatically in recent years, with the estimated number of nests doubling from two years ago in 2021 to around 5,000 now in 2023. Kurosaki Beach (literally “Black-cape beach” in Japanese), a major breeding ground for Black-tailed gulls, is often called ‘Shirasaki Beach (“White-cape beach”)’ because its black rocks have turned completely white from their excrements.

Black-tailed gull
Black-tailed gull

Slaty-backed gull    Larus schistisagus 

A large gull with pink legs and a bright white tail. It reigns at the top of the biological pyramid on Teuri Island, and will swallow an adult Rhinoceros Auklet up to 38 cm long awhole. Black-tailed gull chicks, pit vipers and sea urchins are other favorites. If you see sea urchin shells lying around town, they are often the remains of the Slaty-backed gull’s meal.

Slaty-backed gull eating sea urchin

This Slaty-backed gull, just after swallowing a whole Rhinoceros Auklet, has its wings overflowing from its mouth and its chest is swollen with Rhinoceros Auklet!

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

 

Photographs & report: Wataru HIMENO

Observation period: May-July 2023, Teuri Island, Hokkaido, Japan

★ Visit our web site of  TEURI ISLAND.

Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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Rhinoceros Auklets on the Rocky Cliffs: Teuri Island

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

In the beginning of July, we operated a tour called the “Teuri Island Seabird Class” lead by Takaki Terasawa, a nature photographer living on Teuri Island. First thing in the morning, we took his boat the “Keimafuri-Go” and headed out to sea. (Keimafuri is the Japanese name for the Spectacled Guillemot.) We went to the rocky outcrop near Aka iwa (Red Rock) where the Rhinoceros Auklet like to gather.

Photographs from the Small Fishing Boat! Spectacled Guillemot of Teuri Island

Homecoming of the Rhinoceros Auklet (Teuri Island – Hokkaido)

Spectacled Guillemot at Terui Island / Akaiwa Observatory

Ocean Sunset at Terui Island, with the Spectacled Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet

These birds are said to be widely distributed along the North Pacific Seas, from Japan’s northern coast to the Kuril Islands, Aleutian Islands, and towards Alaska, but it is not easy to get close enough to see them. It is quite rare to find places where you can observe them actually!

Teuri Island is the largest breeding area in the world for these Auklets, and here you can see them when the adult birds display their “horns” (and pretty easily to access at that!) so this spot is quite a precious place.

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

The “horns” of the Auklets are a special growth that appears on their beaks during the breeding season on adult birds. This horn is where they get the name “Rhinoceros Auklet.” This protrusion is not seen on young birds or non-breeding birds. The first time I saw a Rhinocerous Auklet was super exciting! I happened to be on a sperm whale cruise in the Nemuro Strait and we knew the sighting was so rare.

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

The outcrop that is near the tidal areas of Akaiwa (Red Rock). For some reason the birds are always trying to land on this rock and there seems to be some important social interactions happening there. Some of them display some territorial behaviors and chase away other birds to keep them off of the rocky structure.

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

This group of 4 birds seem to be involved in a conversation about something.

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

Dynamic moves afoot!

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

These two are looking quite, um, friendly?

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

These two are also having a good relationship as well?

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

These two are an item, it seems!

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

There are so many different things going on in this place, I could just watch them for a long time! It is an important place for the Rhinoceros Auklets.

Rhinoceros Auklets seen from the Akaiwa Observatory, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

The view you see, looking down from the Akaiwa Observatory. You can see how all the Auklets are gathering around this single rock outcrop.

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Island, Hokkaido

While I was observing them, they suddenly, all took off and flew away at once. This morning, we could have stayed watching them all day long, watching the interesting interactions of the Auklets. In 2021 their breeding situation was a little concerning, so I pray that as many chicks as possible could fledge from this breeding area.

Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: July 2021, Teuri Island, Hokkaido

★ Visit our web site of  TEURI ISLAND.

Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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Ocean Sunset at Terui Island, with the Spectacled Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet

ケイマフリ 天売島 夕方のケイマフリ号 (6)

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

No where else in the world can you see these rare seabirds nesting, as close as you can on Terui Island, the island of the Spectacled Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet. To get there, one needs to take a ferry from Haboro, Hokkaido for about 1hour and 30 minutes, in the remote reaches of the Sea of Okhotsk. The birds will arrive at the island from April to July, but it is a bit easier on the traveler to come when the sea conditions are calmer, around June. By this time, breeding has passed its peak and you can observe the seabirds hastily raising their chicks.

On the day we arrived on Terui Island, Mr. Takaki Terasawa, a nature photographer living on the Island, told us “Today’s sunset has a lot of potential” so we headed back out to sea in his boat, ‘Keimafuri Gou’ (literally translated to the ‘Spectacled guillemot ship’).

ウトウ 天売島ケイマフリ号Rhinoceros Auklet (2)

By June, you can see the seabirds diligently carrying a beak full of fish back to their chicks in the nest. Right off the bat, we saw a rhinoceros auklet.

ウトウ 天売島ケイマフリ号Rhinoceros Auklet (1)

Once the sunsets, it is time to head back to the nest. We could see this figure appear, an auklet with a bunch of fish in its beak. As its namesake implies, the mature Auklet has a growth that resembles a rhinoceros horn, which protrudes from the base of the upper beak.

ウトウ 天売島ケイマフリ号Rhinoceros Auklet (4)

This rhinoceros auklet has many fish to take back to the chicks waiting at its nest.

ケイマフリ 天売島 夕方のケイマフリ号 (4)

This is a guillemot that is carrying some fish in its beak. Probably it has caught the Pacific sandlance? The common name in Japanese for the guillemot translates to “Red legs” derived from the Ainu name “Keima hure” because of its noticeable bright red legs. The English name is based on the smart pair of glasses the birds wear, Spectacled guillemot, due to the white patterns around its eyes. Either way, however, it is hard to understand these descriptive names in this back lit scene.

ケイマフリ 天売島 夕方のケイマフリ号 (7)

As the sun sets low and the sky grows dark, it is about the time that one starts to worry about whether the shutter speed on the camera can capture the images we want. More and more guillemots are arriving with fish in their beaks.

天売島 夕方のケイマフリ号 (8)

The setting sun in the sea off Terui Island.

ウトウ 天売島ケイマフリ号Rhinoceros Auklet (5)

The striking scene of the setting sun silhouetting the rhinoceros auklets. I have such a deep appreciation to be able to see this amazing site! Thank you!

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Jun 2018, Teuri Island, Hokkaido

★ Visit our web site of  TEURI ISLAND.

Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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Homecoming of the Rhinoceros Auklet (Teuri Island – Hokkaido)

ウトウ  Rhinoceros auklet 天売島 (3)

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

Teuri Island is the largest breeding ground in the world for the Rhinoceros Auklet. They are a member of the ancient murrelet family, and just as the name suggests, it has horn-like protuberance at the base of its upper beak, in its summer plumage.

The birds returning after sunset, to their nests on Teuri Island, during the breeding season is masterful. The beaks of the adults will be filled with fish like the Pacific sandlance and come into the nest at an amazing speed! When you see it, you’d think they will just collide into the ground!
After enjoying an early dinner at the lodge (fresh seasonal sea urchins at that!) the guide took us to Akaiwa Observatory parking lot. It is good manners to take this tour with a local guide in order to avoid accidents, as there is a chance that the rhinoceros auklet might be resting on the road. Once we attached our observational light to the guardrail next to the roadway and set up the tripods, then we are ready for getting some photos.

ウトウ  Rhinoceros auklet 天売島 (5)

We can hear the sounds of the feathers ruffling in the wind just before the they land. Then there is a bit of a tussle between the birds that could catch fish and the birds that couldn’t as they battle for the food and cry out “Gu-e” when attacked. Those parents that couldn’t find any fish attempt to desperately “steal” their neighbor’s catch. The birds with fish, rush to their burrow after landing in order to protect the food for the chicks.

ウトウ  Rhinoceros auklet 天売島 (10)

A rhinoceros auklet with a bunch of fish in its beak. It will scurry into its nest to avoid getting robbed on the way.

ウトウ  Rhinoceros auklet 天売島 (11)

One auklet in hot pursuit of the one with a fish. They passed just at my feet unaware of their observers.

ウトウ  Rhinoceros auklet 天売島 (6)

The pair of rhinoceros auklets appeared out of the burrow we were observing, just in front of us. They were so loving to each other.

ウトウ  Rhinoceros auklet 天売島 (7)

It was a very satisfying night at the Akaiwa Observatory for us as we could see the fast homecoming + fish-filled beaks + a lovey-dovey pair of auklets.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

Observation : Jun 2018, Teuri Island, Hokkaido, Japan

★ Visit our web site of  TEURI ISLAND.

Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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