Akaiwa Observatory - Wildlife of Japan

2022.05.20 update

Photographs from the Small Fishing Boat! Spectacled Guillemot of Teuri Island

Spectacled Guillemot, Teuri Island, Hokkaido

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

In early July of 2021, the “Teuri Island Seabird Class” was led by nature photographer, Takaki Terasawa, who lives on Teuri Island. The tour was 4 days and 3 nights, with a full syllabus, to learn about the seabirds, take pictures of them, and learn more about the environmental issues they face, and to just enjoy seeing the Island itself.

Rhinoceros Auklets on the Rocky Cliffs: Teuri Island

Homecoming of the Rhinoceros Auklet (Teuri Island – Hokkaido）

Spectacled Guillemot at Terui Island / Akaiwa Observatory

Ocean Sunset at Terui Island, with the Spectacled Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet

During the stay, on a clam morning, Mr. Terasawa captained the ship named “Keimafuri-Gou” for our seabird observation cruise. (Keimafuri is the Japanese name for the Spectacled Guillemot.) During this season, daybreak was at 4am, so by the time we left the dock at 6am, it was already bright out. As we pulled out from Maehama Fishing Port, we could see the Rhinoceros Auklets floating around us in the water here and there. We headed out towards the direction of Akaiwa (Red Rock.)

As we neared Akaiwa (Red Rock) I could see the Spectacled Guillemots flying! They are a seabird that only breeds on the coasts of the Sea of Okhotsk, on the Kamchatka Peninsula, and in Japan, they are only found in Aomori Prefecture and Hokkaido. So it is so rare to see them in the world and even more rare to be able to see their breeding grounds.

Just around Akaiwa (Red Rock) and Byobuiwa (Folding Screen Rock) there were so many Spectacled Guillemots. Their appearance makes the name pretty easy to understand, as their wonderful eye rings makes them look as if they are “wearing glasses.” Some of the Kuril Island’s Pigeon Guillemots with their white eyes where worriedly looking at our boat “Is that the Keimafuri?” But the thick white-ringed eyes of the Spectacled Guillemots were really superb.

The Spectacled Guillemots that were sitting on the rocks. According to Mr. Terasawa, these rocky areas are very significant areas for these seabirds. There have been various behaviors while observing them here, as well as even seeing birds mate on this rocky outcrop.

I could also hear the loud calls of the Spectacled Guillemots from the rocks. It feels like I could just watch them forever, as they are engaged in their conversations out there.

Over here also, it’s as if the other birds are watching these two birds at the top converse.

This is a splendid pair. The breast feathers of the bird on the right are unique.

Then, as if it is timed, they all take off in unison. The red legs of the Guillemots are kicking at the surface of the water as they take flight.

Keimafuri-gou by Takaki Terasawa – Teuri Island, Hokkaido

Captain Terasawa’s vessel “Keimafuri-Gou” is a small 6-seater. Getting that eye-level view, is possible only on the Keimafuri-Gou! And the name of the boat on the side, was beautifully hand-painted by Mr. Terasawa himself!

Japanese Sake, with Spectacled Guillemot label from Asahikawa, Hokkaido

This is a bottle of Junmai Sake sold at “Umi no Uchukan” (Teuri Visitor Center) is named after the Spectacled Guillemots as well. The “Keimafuri” sake is 100% made from Hokkaido grown rice in Asahikawa by farmer Takasago Shuzo. And the Guillemot pair on the label is a drawing made by illustrator Hiroshi Abe. It is a very nice label.

After seeing the wild birds in the morning, we enjoyed the evening with sea urchin caught locally and some delicious Keimafuri Sake at night…

To close the trip, we had a tasty local flavor of “Teuri’s Barbecue.” This is the peak season for the harvest of purple sea urchins! By the way, the meat in the background is “the phantom Suffolk lamb” from nearby Yagishiri Island. I could receive the “fortunes” of Yagishiri Island also!

Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: July 2021, Teuri island, Hokkaido

★ Visit our web site of TEURI ISLAND.

★Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

Tags: Birds Photography of Japan, Teuri, 天売島, Teuri Island, ケイマフリ, Akaiwa Observatory, Keimafuri, Keimafuri gou, Spectacled Guillemot, Birding tour Japan, Wildlife of Japan, Bird tour Japan, Birds of Japan, Bird Watching Japan, Wildlife Photography tour in Japan, Wildlife in Japan, Wildlife tour in Japan, Wildlife in Hokkaido

2022.05.08 update

Rhinoceros Auklets on the Rocky Cliffs: Teuri Island

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

In the beginning of July, we operated a tour called the “Teuri Island Seabird Class” lead by Takaki Terasawa, a nature photographer living on Teuri Island. First thing in the morning, we took his boat the “Keimafuri-Go” and headed out to sea. (Keimafuri is the Japanese name for the Spectacled Guillemot.) We went to the rocky outcrop near Aka iwa (Red Rock) where the Rhinoceros Auklet like to gather.

Photographs from the Small Fishing Boat! Spectacled Guillemot of Teuri Island

Homecoming of the Rhinoceros Auklet (Teuri Island – Hokkaido）

Spectacled Guillemot at Terui Island / Akaiwa Observatory

Ocean Sunset at Terui Island, with the Spectacled Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet

These birds are said to be widely distributed along the North Pacific Seas, from Japan’s northern coast to the Kuril Islands, Aleutian Islands, and towards Alaska, but it is not easy to get close enough to see them. It is quite rare to find places where you can observe them actually!

Teuri Island is the largest breeding area in the world for these Auklets, and here you can see them when the adult birds display their “horns” (and pretty easily to access at that!) so this spot is quite a precious place.

The “horns” of the Auklets are a special growth that appears on their beaks during the breeding season on adult birds. This horn is where they get the name “Rhinoceros Auklet.” This protrusion is not seen on young birds or non-breeding birds. The first time I saw a Rhinocerous Auklet was super exciting! I happened to be on a sperm whale cruise in the Nemuro Strait and we knew the sighting was so rare.

The outcrop that is near the tidal areas of Akaiwa (Red Rock). For some reason the birds are always trying to land on this rock and there seems to be some important social interactions happening there. Some of them display some territorial behaviors and chase away other birds to keep them off of the rocky structure.

This group of 4 birds seem to be involved in a conversation about something.

Dynamic moves afoot!

These two are looking quite, um, friendly?

These two are also having a good relationship as well?

These two are an item, it seems!

There are so many different things going on in this place, I could just watch them for a long time! It is an important place for the Rhinoceros Auklets.

Rhinoceros Auklets seen from the Akaiwa Observatory, Teuri Islnad, Hokkaido

The view you see, looking down from the Akaiwa Observatory. You can see how all the Auklets are gathering around this single rock outcrop.

Rhinoceros Auklets, Teuri Island, Hokkaido

While I was observing them, they suddenly, all took off and flew away at once. This morning, we could have stayed watching them all day long, watching the interesting interactions of the Auklets. In 2021 their breeding situation was a little concerning, so I pray that as many chicks as possible could fledge from this breeding area.

Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: July 2021, Teuri Island, Hokkaido

★ Visit our web site of TEURI ISLAND.

★Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

Tags: Wildlife tour in Japan, Wildlife in Hokkaido, Birds Photography of Japan, Teuri, 天売島, Teuri Island, ウトウ, Rhinoceros Auklet, Utou, Akaiwa Observatory, Bird in Hokkaido, Seabirds in Japan, Birding tour Japan, Wildlife of Japan, Bird tour Japan, Birds of Japan, Bird Watching Japan, Wildlife Photography tour in Japan, Wildlife in Japan

2021.09.01 update

Spectacled Guillemot at Terui Island / Akaiwa Observatory

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

Finally, I had the chance to make it to Terui Island; I have always wanted to visit here. Spectacled guillemots and Rhinoceros auklets breed here, but it is very hard to see them breeding up close overseas.

Photographs from the Small Fishing Boat! Spectacled Guillemot of Teuri Island

Homecoming of the Rhinoceros Auklet (Teuri Island – Hokkaido）

Rhinoceros Auklets on the Rocky Cliffs: Teuri Island

Ocean Sunset at Terui Island, with the Spectacled Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet

We immediately head to the Akaiwa Observatory, where we can observe the spectacled guillemot, and see the world’s largest breeding ground for the rhinoceros auklet. Akaiwa, meaning red rock, is a 48 meter high rock that protrudes from the westernmost part of Terui Island. The surrounding cliffs are called the Akaiwa Observatory, and there are trails and terraces for observing the breeding grounds of the auklets.

The observation boardwalk and the burrows of the auklets. The burrows are about 20 cm in diameter. The auklets do not return to the Island until after it gets dark, but you can still observe the guillemots on the sea-facing cliffs.

The spectacled guillemots returned from sea with the namesake Akaiwa in the background. Spectacled guillemots build nests in the crevices of the ‘Red Rock,’ taking advantage of any small gaps and nooks on the rough surface. From this vantage point, you can see guillemots flying to and from the nests and the sea, as well as get good observations of their courtship behaviors as the pairs sit on the rocks.

A Spectacled guillemot returning from the sea, landing near its nest.

Then the partner came out and they started their display. This was the lovely first glimpse we got, right off the bat.

A spectacled guillemot husband and wife.

I wonder what they are saying to each other, these guillemots.

Their courtships calls pierce the sky.

This is the effect the Akaiwa Observatory can have on you…where you are captivated by the beauty of the guillemots and you forget to look at the time.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Jun 2018, Teuri Island, Hokkaido, Japan

★ Visit our web site of TEURI ISLAND.

★Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

Tags: Wildlife in Hokkaido, Birds Photography of Japan, Teuri, 天売島, Teuri Island, ケイマフリ, Akaiwa Observatory, Keimafuri, Spectacled Guillemot, Birding tour Japan, Wildlife of Japan, Bird tour Japan, Birds of Japan, Bird Watching Japan, Wildlife Photography tour in Japan, Wildlife in Japan, Wildlife tour in Japan

2021.08.25 update

Ocean Sunset at Terui Island, with the Spectacled Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

No where else in the world can you see these rare seabirds nesting, as close as you can on Terui Island, the island of the Spectacled Guillemot and Rhinoceros Auklet. To get there, one needs to take a ferry from Haboro, Hokkaido for about 1hour and 30 minutes, in the remote reaches of the Sea of Okhotsk. The birds will arrive at the island from April to July, but it is a bit easier on the traveler to come when the sea conditions are calmer, around June. By this time, breeding has passed its peak and you can observe the seabirds hastily raising their chicks.

On the day we arrived on Terui Island, Mr. Takaki Terasawa, a nature photographer living on the Island, told us “Today’s sunset has a lot of potential” so we headed back out to sea in his boat, ‘Keimafuri Gou’ (literally translated to the ‘Spectacled guillemot ship’).

By June, you can see the seabirds diligently carrying a beak full of fish back to their chicks in the nest. Right off the bat, we saw a rhinoceros auklet.

Once the sunsets, it is time to head back to the nest. We could see this figure appear, an auklet with a bunch of fish in its beak. As its namesake implies, the mature Auklet has a growth that resembles a rhinoceros horn, which protrudes from the base of the upper beak.

This rhinoceros auklet has many fish to take back to the chicks waiting at its nest.

This is a guillemot that is carrying some fish in its beak. Probably it has caught the Pacific sandlance? The common name in Japanese for the guillemot translates to “Red legs” derived from the Ainu name “Keima hure” because of its noticeable bright red legs. The English name is based on the smart pair of glasses the birds wear, Spectacled guillemot, due to the white patterns around its eyes. Either way, however, it is hard to understand these descriptive names in this back lit scene.

As the sun sets low and the sky grows dark, it is about the time that one starts to worry about whether the shutter speed on the camera can capture the images we want. More and more guillemots are arriving with fish in their beaks.

The setting sun in the sea off Terui Island.

The striking scene of the setting sun silhouetting the rhinoceros auklets. I have such a deep appreciation to be able to see this amazing site! Thank you!

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Jun 2018, Teuri Island, Hokkaido

★ Visit our web site of TEURI ISLAND.

★Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

Tags: Rhinoceros Auklet, 天売島, Akaiwa Observatory, ケイマフリ, ウトウ, Keimafuri, Wildlife of Japan, Spectacled Guillemot, Utou, Birds of Japan, Birding tour Japan, Wildlife Photography tour in Japan, Bird tour Japan, Wildlife tour in Japan, Bird Watching Japan, Birds Photography of Japan, Wildlife in Japan, Wildlife in Hokkaido, Teuri Island, Teuri

2021.08.05 update

Homecoming of the Rhinoceros Auklet (Teuri Island – Hokkaido）

>For information and tours of Teuri Island, click here!

Teuri Island is the largest breeding ground in the world for the Rhinoceros Auklet. They are a member of the ancient murrelet family, and just as the name suggests, it has horn-like protuberance at the base of its upper beak, in its summer plumage.

The birds returning after sunset, to their nests on Teuri Island, during the breeding season is masterful. The beaks of the adults will be filled with fish like the Pacific sandlance and come into the nest at an amazing speed! When you see it, you’d think they will just collide into the ground!
After enjoying an early dinner at the lodge (fresh seasonal sea urchins at that!) the guide took us to Akaiwa Observatory parking lot. It is good manners to take this tour with a local guide in order to avoid accidents, as there is a chance that the rhinoceros auklet might be resting on the road. Once we attached our observational light to the guardrail next to the roadway and set up the tripods, then we are ready for getting some photos.

We can hear the sounds of the feathers ruffling in the wind just before the they land. Then there is a bit of a tussle between the birds that could catch fish and the birds that couldn’t as they battle for the food and cry out “Gu-e” when attacked. Those parents that couldn’t find any fish attempt to desperately “steal” their neighbor’s catch. The birds with fish, rush to their burrow after landing in order to protect the food for the chicks.

A rhinoceros auklet with a bunch of fish in its beak. It will scurry into its nest to avoid getting robbed on the way.

One auklet in hot pursuit of the one with a fish. They passed just at my feet unaware of their observers.

The pair of rhinoceros auklets appeared out of the burrow we were observing, just in front of us. They were so loving to each other.

It was a very satisfying night at the Akaiwa Observatory for us as we could see the fast homecoming + fish-filled beaks + a lovey-dovey pair of auklets.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

Observation : Jun 2018, Teuri Island, Hokkaido, Japan

★ Visit our web site of TEURI ISLAND.

★Contact us to make arrangements for photographing seabirds on Teuri Island and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

Tags: Birds Photography of Japan, 天売島, ウトウ, Teuri Island, Utou, Rhinoceros Auklet, Bird in Hokkaido, Akaiwa Observatory, Seabirds in Japan, Birding tour Japan, Bird tour Japan, Wildlife of Japan, Bird Watching Japan, Birds of Japan, Wildlife in Japan, Wildlife Photography tour in Japan, Wildlife in Hokkaido, Wildlife tour in Japan, Teuri