We embarked on a herping expedition in rainy-season Okinawa. The main objective was to search for three species of ground geckos (Goniurosaurus sp.) in three locations: Yanbaru National Park on northern Okinawa Main Island, southern Okinawa Main Island, and Iheya Island.
The first destination was the southern part of Okinawa Main Island. This area is characterized by a landscape dominated by uplifted limestone formations from ancient coral reefs. It’s a significant spot where the Japanese ground gecko (Goniurosaurus kuroiwae) can be photographed against a backdrop of limestone.
Japanese ground gecko (Goniurosaurus kuroiwae）
Blessed with favorable weather, we observed over 20 specimens. The Japanese ground gecko is distinguished by a continuous pattern running from the neck to the tail, against its back.
Japanese ground gecko (Goniurosaurus kuroiwae）Japanese ground gecko (Goniurosaurus kuroiwae）
On the second day, we traveled to Iheya Island, the northernmost island in Okinawa Prefecture. I set out in search of the most challenging to observe among Japanese ground geckos, the Iheya ground gecko (Goniurosaurus toyamai).
Upon arrival by ferry, we were greeted by the island’s beautiful sea and its sole taxi service, Habu Taxi (Habu being a species of viper), for our journey.
Iheya island’s beautiful seaIheya island’s sole taxi service, Habu Taxi
Shortly after dusk, the elusive Iheya ground gecko appeared. Its distinct band pattern and light pinkish body coloration were remarkable. It was a large (equivalent to the length of the palm of one’s hand) and stunning specimen, particularly due to its intact tail—something which is rarely found in nature.
Subsequently, I successfully observed one of Okinawa’s rarest snakes, the Hai coral snake (Sinomicrurus japonicus boettgeri). Although there are no records of human bites to date, we had to be careful while observing these snakes because they are highly venomous members of the cobra family.
One of the most intriguing encounters was with the Ryukyu odd-tooth snake (Lycodon semicarinatus). I observed a total of three of them that day, noting their darker, more chic coloration compared to their counterparts on Okinawa Main Island. Typically, this species on Okinawa Main Island darkens as they grow larger, but the specimens on Iheya Island exhibited darker hues even at smaller sizes, hinting at possible new species awaiting discovery through further research on this less-visited island.
After encountering another Iheya ground gecko and successfully observing a habu the following morning, our Iheya herping adventure concluded with great satisfaction.
For the final day, we headed to Yanbaru National Park on northern Okinawa Main Island. Here, the primary goal was to observe the recently registered new species in 2024, the Yambaru ground gecko (Goniurosaurus nebulozonatus).
The Yambaru ground gecko is distinguished by interrupted dorsal patterns. Among the specimens observed, some showed patterns which were almost connected, clearly distinguishing them from the previously categorized Japanese ground geckos found on southern Okinawa Main Island.
Herping in Yanbaru National Park is appealing not only due to the variety of creatures one can observe but also because of the richness of biodiversity. In addition to geckos, we successfully observed Ryukyu green snakes (Cycophiops semicarinatus), Anderson’s crocodile newt (Echinotriton andersoni), and Namiye’s frog (Limnonectes namiyei), culminating in a highly satisfying herping experience.
The Okinawa Islands are a hotspot for herps, each island harboring unique endemic species. I encourage every herper to venture out for a herping experience here.
There are two subspecies of the Ryukyu Robin (Akahige in Japanese): Larvivora komadori komadoriwhich inhabits Amami Oshima Island, and Larvivora komadori namiyei which is found on the main island of Okinawa. These are two species that are considered a subspecies at the moment, but I heard that an announcement to make them two separate species will occur in the near future.
This is a report about a 5 day, 4 night tour conducted in early April.
Day 1 Starts from the main island of Okinawa. First we stop by the Triangle Pond (Sankaku-ike) , a famous birding spot. The usual Eurasian spoonbill (Herasagi) was seen amongst the flock of the usual flock of Black-faced spoonbills (Kurotsura herasagi).
Black-faced spoonbill Photography by Hiroshi KAWADA
We saw Black-winged Stilts (Seitaka shigi) here and there, and Greenshanks (Aoashi shigi) flying by. In the distance, Temminick’s sStint (Ojiro tounen) and a Long-toed Stint (Hibari shigi) are present. On the power lines, the Light-vented Bulbul (Shirogashira) and the Jungle Crow (Ryukyu hashibuto garasu, Corvus macrorhynchos connectens) were calling loudly.
From the Triangle Pond, we headed north to the Yanbaru Area. We waited for the Ryukyu robin (Akahige, Larvivora komadori namiyei) and the Okinawa rail (Yanbaru kuina). We could hear the Ashy minivet (Ryukyu sanshoukui,Pericrocotus divaricatus tegimae), and the Warbling white-eye (Ryukyu mejiro, Zosterops japonicus loochooensis), but we did not hear a sound from the target species. The day was completed after confirming the call of the Yanbaru Rail.
Day 2. A chilly morning, for Okinawa. We set out in the early morning, before sunrise, to see the Yanbaru Rail. We were able to see two rails crossing the road, as well as 4 Ryukyu wild boar.
After breakfast, we went to Akahige Point. Before I could see anything else, an Okinawa woodpecker (Noguchigera) flew to the dead tree right in front of us! We were so lucky! It seems like they were nest building, and we could hear the knocking sounds “kon-kon, kon-kon” coming from inside the hole…In order to prevent disturbing them, we kept our distance and observation time short.
Okinawa woodpecker Photography by Yuji TSUKAMOTO
The Ryukyu robin was the main attraction, but it didn’t make an appearance for a while. But there was one participant saw a male and female, and even captured some photos of it bathing.
Ryukyu Robin, Larvivora komadori namiyei (male) Photography by Hiroshi KAWADABathing Larvivora komadori namiyei (male) Photography by Hiroshi KAWADA
After eating lunch, we went to photograph the Pacific swallow (Ryukyu tsubame), perched along the roadside. Other tourists who saw the scene of us gathered around asking “What is that?” After I answered them, they pulled out their cell phones also and started to snap photos as well! (Lol).
Pacific swallow Photography by Hiroshi KAWADA
After that, we went to the nearby rice field in search of shorebirds and other waders. Unfortunately, the area had changed so much, that it no longer seemed like a place for the shorebirds to hang out.
In the morning, some people had missed the Red-winged woodpecker and Okinawa woodpecker, so we headed back to that point. Sadly, however, we could not see much and ended up running out of daylight.
Day 3 This is the last day of the tour on the main island of Okinawa. However, we did not have much time, so we started from before dawn to look again for the Okinawa Rail. We waited in a certain spot for a long time, but they did not appear there. I did, however see some on the road several times.
After breakfast, we only had one hour. At Akahige Point, we managed to see one individual male. We also got a good look at the Ashy minivet (Ryukyu sanshoukui, Pericrocotus divaricatus tegimae.
Ryukyu Robin Komadori komadori namiyei (male) Photography by Kayo TSUKAMOTOAshy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus tegimae Photography by Hiroshi KAWADA
We arrived at Naha Airport to head to Amami Oshima. Although it was a little chilly in Yanbaru, it was so hot in Naha! Our plane took off heading to Amami Oshima.
It was windy in Amami Oshima, so we gave up on birdwatching along the coast, and went for a walk through the forest sanctuary instead. While we didn’t have much time there, and the sky looked suspicious as well, we got to see the White-backed Woodpecker (Ooaka gera, Dendrocopos leucotos owstoni). And we were really hoping to see a White’s Thrush subspecies, the Amami Thrush (Ootoratsugumi, Zoothera dauma major). However all we saw was the Amami Jay (Rurikakesu), and then we were out of time.
After checking into the hotel and we had finished our dinner, we set out for a nightwalk. Accompanied by a local guide, we drove along the forested roads. As a result, we could see many Amami woodcocks (Amami Yamashigi) and the Amami Rabbits (Amami Kurousagi). Also, we could see endemic species such as the Amami Woodcock, Amami Rabbit, Amami Ishikawa’s frog (Amami Ishikawa gaeru), Okinawa pit viper (Himehabu), and the Amami spiny rat (Amami togenezumi),making it a very special night.
Amami Woodcock Photography by Hiroshi KAWADAAmami Rabbit Photography by Yuji TSUKAMOTOAmami Ishikawa’s frog Photography by Kayo TSUKAMOTORyukyu scops owl Photography by Hiroshi KAWADA
Day 4 We were a bit worried about the weather, but we set out in search of Amami thrush, Amami jay, and other thrushes. Unfortunately, we had a little rain, on and off. We broke the participants up into two search groups, one for searching for the Ryukyu robin, and one searching for the Amami thrush. The Ryukyu robin group could end up seeing a few. The Ryukyu thrush group, could see one, but no one could catch a photo of it.
Then, after lunch, we split up into two groups again, and we were all able to see the target species and get photos of them both, fortunately. We also had some good opportunities to photograph the Ryukyu jay.
Ryukyu Robin Larvivora komadori komadori Male）Photography by Yuji TSUKAMOTORyukyu Robin Larvivora komadori komadori (Female）Photography by Kayo TSUKAMOTOAmami Thrush Photography by Hiroshi KAWADAAmami Jay Photography by Yuji TSUKAMOTO
Day 5 Last day of the tour. The weather forecast is not looking good. Unfortunately it looks like rain until the end of the tour.
First, we set off before dawn to listen to the calls of the Ryukyu thrush. On the way, we saw an Amami woodcock and heard the calls of a Ryukyu scops owl. As we parked the car, we had a light rain, but we could hear the calls of the Ryukyu thrush.
After breakfast, we didn’t have much time. But it would have been nice just to see the White-backed woodpecker (Austin Ooakagera), so we searched for it on the way to the airport, but we could not spot it. Finally, we went to a rice paddy, where some migratory birds, might be around. Despite the rain, we were able to see the White-Breasted Waterhen (Shirohara kuina) and the White Wagtail (Houjiro hakusekirei, Motacilla alba leucopsis), the Black-winged Stilt (Seitaka shigi) and other species.
White-Breasted Waterhen Photography by Hiroshi KAWADAWhite Wagtail Motacilla alba leucopsis Photography by Hiroshi KAWADA
This tour was a hyper-focused tour just for the hardcore birders, with the aim of seeing both subspecies of the Ryukyu robin on the main island of Okinawa and on Amami Oshima, and I can say it was a success. I wish to thank all the participants, who made the most of their precious time, over the course of 5 days, to intensely help search for birds, from early morning until late at night.
Text : Kenji YANAGAWA – Bird concierge
Photos are courtesy of all the participants of the tour
Observed： Beginning of April, 2023, Okinawa main island, and Amami Oshima
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Okinawa & Amami Oshima. We can make various arrangements for your trip.
This is a summary of the wild creatures you might encounter while herping in Okinawa.
The Japanese cave gecko (Goniurosaurus kuroiwae, in Japanese:クロイワトカゲモドキ Kuroiwa tokagemodoki) is endemic to Japan. They have primitive characteristics: such as a lack of scales on their fingers, so they cannot stick to or climb walls; they have eyelids, so they can blink; etc. They come in a variety of colors and patterns, depending on which region and on which island they are found. This is the Goniurosaurus kuroiwae kuroiwae, which is the standard subspecies among the different varieties. It features a prominent red eye with banded patterning on its body.
Japanese cave geckoJapanese cave geckoJapanese cave gecko
The Kerama Cave Gecko (Goniurosaurus kuroiwae sengokui, in Jp: ケラマトカゲモドキ Kerama tokagemodoki), a subspecies of the Kuroiwa cave gecko, can only found on a few islands, located two hours by ferry, from the main island of Okinawa. It has a striking orange body, which is noticeable as a difference in the juveniles, right from birth.
Other gecko species live in Okinawa have various subspecies with different color patterns, depending on the island and the region where they can be found.
The Japanese cave geckoGoniurosaurus kuroiwae kuroiwae （ in Japanese:クロイワトカゲモドキ沖縄本島亜種 Kuroiwa tokagemodoki Okinawa Mainland Subspecies) has red eyes and a striped pattern indicative of the cave geckos. Lives on the southern part of the main island of Okinawa.
The Kume Cave GeckoGoniurosaurus kuroiwae yamashinae (in Jp: クメトカゲモドキ Kume tokagemodoki) has yellow eyes and a yellow banded coloration.
Kume Cave Gecko
In Okinawa Prefecture, there is a golden colored pit viper that is endemic to the Ryuku Islands, in Japanese called the Habu（ハブ） Protobothrops flavoviridis . Its venom is not very poisonous, but the full length can be rather large at over 2 meters long and solenoglyphous, the fangs for injecting the venom is 1.5 cm. The silver color variation is called a ‘Gin Habu’ meaning ‘Silver Habu’ which is lacking the yellow pigment that is found in the typical Habu.
HabuHabuHabu
Additionally, there is an endemic Viper in Japanese called the ‘Hime Habu（ヒメハブ）’ (Ovophis okinavensis) which inhabits the same area. Literally, the name means “small habu,” however, even though it belongs to the same family as the Habu, it is a different genus. Frogs being their favorite prey, they can often be observed at the waterside hunting for frogs that are distracted and trying to breed. They stay active even in the winter when other snakes are usually less active.
Hime HabuHime HabuHime Habu
Moreover, in the Yaeyama Island Chain, which are islands located south of the main island of Okinawa, the endemic Sakishima-Habu（サキシマハブ） Protobothrops elegans can be found. In the Sakishima Islands during the summer, one might come across this snake as a given, but you might see an orangish colored snake, that is the same species, but it has lost its dark color. This rare color variation is about one in every 10 snakes. It is a very beautiful snake.
Sakishima-HabuSakishima-Habu
Also, on the main island of Okinawa, there is an extra large snake known as the Ryukyu odd-tooth snake (Lycodon semicarinatus) or in Japanese ‘Akamata（アカマタ）,’ which may have a total length exceeding 2 meters. With a voracious appetite, it eats anything including frogs, lizards, mice, and other snakes. It is an endemic species of Japan.
Ryukyu odd-tooth snakeRyukyu odd-tooth snake
Okinawa’s frogs are also famous.
The most famous frog is the endemic Ishikawa’s Frog (Odorrana ishikawae) or in Japanese ‘Okinawa Ishikawa gaeru（オキナワイシカワガエル）.’ With a total length of more than 10 cm it is a relatively large species, however, coming across it in the forest may be difficult because it is usually dispersed in the mountains. In addition, relatively many blue frogs, lacking the yellow pigment have been found, resulting in many people herping in the Yambaru region in search of blue Ishikawa frogs.
Ishikawa’s FrogIshikawa’s Frog
Also, in the Yambaru forest, there is a high probability to be able to observe the endemic Ryukyu Tip-nosed Frog (in Jp: Hanasakigaeru（ハナサキガエル）. Because they have very long legs, they can quickly evade you, making it quite difficult to photograph. It is very rare, but according to some, the blue variation of these frogs has been found there as well.
Ryukyu Tip-nosed FrogRyukyu Tip-nosed Frog
Then, there is the endemic Anderson’s CrocodileNewt Echinotriton andersoni, in Japanese Iboimori（イボイモリ）, which lives like a reptile. Even though they are amphibians, they aren’t found in or near water, and have strange adaptations like laying their eggs on land.
In May, I visited the Aguni Islands for the bigeye trevally season. We not only got to see schools of bigeye<GINGAME-AJI> making a tornado of fish, we also got to see the giant trevally <ROUNIN-AJI>as well as school of dogtooth tuna<ISO-MAGURO>. There were breeding colored bigeye trevally and the sea was bursting full of life!
DIVE IN AGUNI ISLAND 粟国島の海
Image & text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation: May 2021, Aguni Island, Okinawa
Japan’s westernmost island is the Yonaguni Island. It is said that on a good visibility day in the summertime, you can see all the way to Taiwan. One of the things that make Yonaguni famous, are the schools of Hammerhead Sharks that can be observed here while diving.
We visited early April, which is the end of the hammerhead season, so we thought it would be difficult to encounter them, but we were able to see many schools multiple times.
An unexpected encounter with a large school of hammerheads.
The hammerhead sharks at Yonaguni Island are all females and are generally calm and do not bite. Usually, they are found swimming at a depth of 35m to 40m, but this time we could encounter them at a relatively shallow depth of 25m to 30m.
Of course, while diving, we also visited the ‘Yonaguni Underwater Monument.’What looks like a terrace cut at right angles, looks man-made, but the natural formation is not actually a ruin. It is found in a spot that has a fast moving tide.
We stayed at Guesthouse FIESTA, where the owner prepared a wonderful BBQ for us.
The Yonaguni marlin are also famous. There are also many fishing boats that mainly target the marlin. We could get some fresh sashimi from the local Kinjo Tackel Shop. During our stay, we could also enjoy the fresh greater amberjack and green jobfish
We also had some locally produced ‘Island tofu (Shima tofu)’ cold and the last of the seasonal ‘Island Coriander/cilantro (shima pakuchii).’
This baby goat isn’t on the menu! This is the 2-month old goat of the Dive Shop Marlin, and it has been guaranteed the lucky designation as a lifelong pet.
Image & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: Apr 2021, Yonaguni Island, Okinawa
Special Thanks: Yonaguni Diving Service MARLIN, Guesthouse FIESTA
