The Wildlife of the Wara River – The Japanese Giant Salamander & Fireflies (Part 2)

ヒメボタルの乱舞
Countless himebotaru fireflies lighting up the mountain in a fluorescent yellow

In the mountainous regions where the tributaries of the Wara river flow, live two primary species of fireflies: the genjibotaru and the himebotaru. Though some people may think that fireflies usually live near riverbanks, in fact, of the approximately 50 species endemic to Japan, only three call the riverside their home: the genjibotaru, the heikebotaru, and the kumejimabotaru. When these species are still in their larval stage, they spend their life in the river, subsisting on kawanina (a type of freshwater black snail), and once they fully mature, they light up the riverside and begin to reproduce. All other species of firefly are referred to as “mountain fireflies,” called so because they primarily reside in the mountains, where they prey on snails. Needless to say, a majority of fireflies in Japan fall into this latter, mountain-dwelling category.

Genjibotaru usually begin to glow around 7:30 p.m., so we’ll make sure to head there early and stake out a spot. Once the fireflies light up, the entire mountain will seem to fall into sync with their spectacular light show, creating an almost illusory experience which is simply not to be missed! The peak time for their activity is around 8:00 p.m., after which their light will gradually begin to dim. It will not fade out completely, however, meaning you can enjoy watching them until about midnight.

ゲンジボタルの乱舞
A swarm of genjibotaru, dancing in the dark
ゲンジボタルの乱舞
More genjibotaru along the river

At 9:00 p.m., we will finish our observation of the genjibotaru and head over to see the himebotaru. This might be one of the only places in all of Japan where you’ll be able to survey two distinct species of fireflies within the span of one evening!

We’ll arrive at the himebotaru viewing spot within approximately one hour. The mountainous area where they reside is highly forested, filled with various trees, including Japanese cedars and bamboo. It is also inhabited by leeches, which will require some preparation and countermeasures on our part.

発光のピークをむかえるヒメボタル
The captivating dance of the himebotaru

Genjibotaru emit their ray-like light for two seconds, after which they rest for another two seconds (interestingly, for variants of this species in East Japan, both intervals increase to four seconds). In comparison, the himebotaru flashes twice within the span of a single second. In thirty seconds, you’ll be able to see sixty flashes of their light, which leaves traces in the shape of a rod after it dissipates. To summarize the visual difference in how they emit their bioluminescent light, those of the genjibotaru resemble streaks, while those of the himebotaru are more like flickering dots.

In places where many himebotaru can be found, the mountains light up with their characteristic yellow tint, making for a simply stunning sight. The variants living in Gifu prefecture are most active late at night, so you’ll be able to see them between 10:00 p.m. and 02:00 a.m. This perfect timing means you can view them and the genjibotaru in one day!

By the time you return to your lodgings, we’ll have already crossed over into a new day, but we promise the late-night excursion is worth it—getting to see these two species of fireflies will be an unforgettable experience.

ハコネサンショウウオ
A Japanese clawed salamander
アカハライモリ
A Japanese fire-bellied newt

Depending on the schedule, we will be able to show you a wide variety of other wildlife as well! We can travel up to the river’s source and look for the larva of smaller salamanders (such as the Japanese clawed salamander and the Hida salamander), go after amago—a fish that only lives in the mountain streams of western Japan, spot the notoriously gluttonous mountain char, and admire all sorts of other aquatic insects and lizards.

As of late, many guests have begun to flock to the Wara river—both domestically and from all corners of the world. Even the number of repeat visitors has risen! We plan on continuing our tours of the area, in the hopes of bringing the joy of wildlife appreciation to even more eager enthusiasts. We greatly look forward to the day when we can meet you in the field and explore the Wara river together!

和良川でお待ちしています! I’ll be waiting for you in the Wara river! -Yoshiro Ito

Text & Photo : Yoshihiro ITO

★Related tour:Japanese Giant Salamander and Dancing Fireflies

Profile: Yoshihiro Ito
Underwater photographer and diving instructor. After a noteworthy diving experience in Iriomote Island, he became infatuated with the sea and went on to obtain his instructor’s license. Having dived in seas and rivers all across the world, he is still most fascinated by the rich ecosystem of the rivers in his home prefecture of Gifu. After resolving himself to become a guide for lesser-known, lesser-explored regions of the world, he established Itōsensuikikaku—or “Ito’s Diving Tours.” There, he plans and leads tours that showcase the various rich wildlife that inhabits rivers.

Contact us to make arrangements for observation of Giant Salamander and Dancing Fireflies.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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The Wildlife of the Wara River – The Japanese Giant Salamander & Fireflies (Part 1)

世界最大の両生類・オオサンショウウオ
The Japanese giant salamander—the world’s largest amphibian

The Wara river runs through a series of hamlets nestled among the mountains that span the gap between Mino and Hida cities in Japan’s Gifu prefecture. The river calls itself home to an amphibian species that is entirely unique to Japan, and which has been dubbed one of its “Special Natural Monuments.” This species is of course, the Japanese giant salamander. Around the middle of the month of June, you can also feast your eyes on the beauty of the fireflies that assemble around the river’s tributaries.

When observing the salamanders in person, it’s important to abide by one key rule: never attempt to touch them on your own. In addition to being one of Japan’s “Special Natural Monuments,” the country’s Ministry of the Environment also lists the species’ conservation status as “Vulnerable.” Needless to say, Japan takes great care to protect these animals, and it’s important that wildlife enthusiasts follow suit. Though you cannot touch them directly, you will have the opportunity to put on an underwater mask and photograph (or take videos of) the creatures for yourself.

石の中に隠れるオオサンショウウオ
A salamander hiding within a rock

During summertime, Japanese giant salamanders rise above the water’s surface to breathe approximately every few minutes. Each time, they clumsily swim up from their home to the surface, poke their heads out to breathe, and then scramble hurriedly to return to their original position. There’s something wonderfully endearing about it all—it’s enough to trigger one’s parental instincts, making you want to protect these not-so-little guys at all costs.

オオサンショウウオの正面顔
A Japanese giant salamander, photographed from the front
Plodding along the rocky riverbed

The Japanese giant salamander is a nocturnal species, and during the day, they prefer to hide their heads among the river’s many rocks. Though they have a dislike of bright places, you will still have a chance to photograph them as they come up to breathe. Even ones which might be facing away from you will eventually—if you wait long enough—come up to breathe and offer you a chance to get a frontal photo. Patience and resolve are the key to getting that perfect shot! The most rewarding photo to get, however, would probably be of their cute yawns. If you manage to get the timing down just right, you could snap a splendid shot of the salamanders with their mouths wide open! In addition to this, it’s possible to see the salamanders engaged in a wide variety of behaviors, including feasting on nearby fish, and even shedding their skin.

The salamanders sometimes come out of the river, and—a few times a year—can be spotted on the banks of the river’s low-head dam. Those who witness this sight can consider themselves very lucky! A great deal of these salamanders call a wide range of the Wara river their home. Most interestingly, as of January 2025, no specimens that have interbred with the Chinese giant salamander have been confirmed in the area. This means that the Wara river is a very special place, home to a uniquely Japanese species of salamander.

カワヨシノボリ
Rhinogobius flumineus—also known as the “lizard goby”
日本固有種のニホンイシガメ
A Japanese pond turtle, another species unique to Japan

In addition to the Japanese giant salamander, the riverside is home to many other notable animals. Among them is the ayu (or sweetfish), a fish so popular that it has turned into its own brand—the “Wara Ayu.” The biggest draw to this fish is, without a doubt, its fragrance. Schools of ayu swarm the waters of the river in summertime, filling the air with their unique smell, reminiscent of a refreshing watermelon. When cooked, they’re often stuffed with high-grade seaweed, and the moment you take a bite, a wonderful fragrant aroma courses through your mouth—the slightly bitter tones mix perfectly with the sweet and savory ones, making for a truly exquisite flavor profile.

古民家 「七福山」
Kochu no Sato, an inn in Shichifukusan

For lodgings, you’ll be able to stay in a 170-year-old kominka (an old, traditional Japanese house). Gathering around the sunken hearth, you’ll have the chance to partake in drinks and lively conversation with others, all while enjoying an authentic taste of Japanese traditional life.

Food served here is primarily Japanese, featuring dishes that use river fish and seasonal mountain plants. At this inn, you’ll find remarkable peace and quiet—the kind only a home deep in the mountains can offer. It is a perfect spot for a busy traveler to unwind and ease their mind. The proprietress of this inn is also a wonderful and talkative lady, who will no doubt make your tour an even more lively and entertaining experience.

Text & Photos: Yoshihiro Ito

★Related tour:Japanese Giant Salamander and Dancing Fireflies

Profile: Yoshihiro Ito
Underwater photographer and diving instructor. After a noteworthy diving experience in Iriomote Island, he became infatuated with the sea and went on to obtain his instructor’s license. Having dived in seas and rivers all across the world, he is still most fascinated by the rich ecosystem of the rivers in his home prefecture of Gifu. After resolving himself to become a guide for lesser-known, lesser-explored regions of the world, he established Itōsensuikikaku—or “Ito’s Diving Tours.” There, he plans and leads tours that showcase the various rich wildlife that inhabits rivers.

Contact us to make arrangements for observation of Giant Salamander and Dancing Fireflies.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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Nagano’s Famous Snow Monkeys – The Japanese Macaques of Jigokudani

After World War II, the mountains around Jigokudani, where Japanese macaques reside, were seriously affected by the then-developing forestry industry. This deforestation robbed monkeys of their natural habitat and caused them to travel down to nearby villages, where they wrought damage on local apple farms. Fearing that this would lead to the monkeys being exterminated, Shogo Hara, the first director of Jigokudani-Yaen-Koen, came up with a plan. He started feeding these displaced monkeys in an area deep within the mountains, away from the apple farms. He believed that, if they could just find enough food to eat in the mountains, the monkeys would not resort to ransacking farms. Although it took three years to get the highly cautious Japanese macaques used to being fed by humans, Mr. Hara’s efforts eventually delivered reliable results, and in 1964, Jigokudani-Yaen-Koen officially opened its gates.

During the snowy winter months when it is difficult for them to find food in the mountains, many Japanese macaques opt to gather at this park. The hike up to the monkeys requires that visitors trek for approximately 30 minutes on a snowy trail—the distance is understandable, given the original point of feeding them there was to keep them far away from human settlements. Crampons or snow spikes are essential equipment to have here, as the hiking trail is quite icy and slippery.

The hiking trail leading to Snow Monkey Park
Japanese macaques soaking in a hot spring bathtub
Japanese macaques soaking in a hot spring bathtub, looking thoroughly pleased.
Japanese macaques

Japanese macaques give birth from late April to June, meaning that in January and February, it’s possible to glimpse many baby macaques experiencing their first-ever winter. These young monkeys are brimming with curiosity and are constantly active and full of energy. No matter how long you stare at these cuties, you’ll never get tired of them. Getting to see a mother monkey holding her child firmly in her arms to protect them from the cold is also a very striking image that’s sure to stay with you.

A mother and child showing each other love and affection
A mother and child
Young monkeys being their curious selves
A young monkey

There’s more to this park’s monkeys than just bathing in hot springs. Whether it be on the mountain slopes or by the riverside running through the park, you can spot many Japanese macaques here doing what they do best: grooming their fur, searching for food in the snow, and sometimes even fighting over said food. One of the things that makes the park so unique is precisely that the monkeys are used to being around humans. This means they can be observed and photographed at very close range—though it is important to abide by the park rules, which state that it is forbidden to approach within 1 meter of them.

The many different sides and faces of the Japanese Macaque
Japanese Macaque
Japanese Macaque
Japanese Macaque

The first time Jigokudani-Yaen-Koen attracted the world’s attention was in 1970, when it was featured in LIFE magazine in the United States. After that, during the Nagano Winter Olympics held in 1998, media outlets from many countries reported on the existence of these snow monkeys, which led to this park becoming known all over the world. Nowadays, a wide variety of people—running the gamut from families and couples to ordinary tourists and serious photographers—visit this wonderful Nagano village. They return home with a wonderful experience and share it with others, continuing to spread the word about the wonders of Jigokudani to the whole world.

 

Photo & Text : Kengo Yonetani

Observation : Feb 2025, Jigokudani-Onsen, Nagano, Japan

Contact us to make arrangements for photographing Snow Monkey and Wildlife of Japan.

★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.

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