For 6 days from February 17、I traveled to Eastern Hokkaido. This article introduces the Red-crowned Cranes in the village of Tsurui.
Over the course of two days, I visited Otowa -bashi, a famous spot for observing the roosting cranes. On the first day, it snowed and the lowest temperature that morning was about -6℃. It was forecasted to have an ice-fog at below 15 degrees Celsius. Perhaps due to these bad weather conditions, when we arrived at the bridge at 4am, there were only 3 tripods lined up when we arrived. After 5:30am, the sky brightened and the cranes began to appear even though it was still snowing, and we were able to see them at a short distance away, only about 50 m from the bridge.
On the second day, the lowest temperature was minus 15℃, and when we arrived at 4am, there were already 30 tripods lined up, and in the end, there were so many people crowding to see the cranes, that we had to form two lines for the tripods. The red-crowned cranes were several hundred meters away, because it was sunny, but the morning glow was a golden hue, coloring the crane’s roosting area, making it a very magical sight.
At the Ito Sanctuary, which is the feeding ground for them during the winter, many people had already reserved their photo-taking positions from an hour beforehand. On the first day, perhaps because the wind was really strong, the cranes flew from behind us observers, passing directly above us. Even the photographers with the big camera lenses, were using their cell phones to shoot cause the distance was too close. Also, due to the snow, the ground was covered with a fresh coat of snow, making their courtship displays very elegant and fantastic.
On our second day, there were so many people gathered there from an hour before the feeding time. This time, in the parking area of Ito Sanctuary, there were people who had gotten stuck in the snow, causing lots of confusion in the parking lot. Driving in eastern Hokkaido takes some getting used to, so if you do drive yourself, please be careful not to waste precious photography time and get there early. On this day, it was a particularly beautiful day to observe cranes flying in with the clear blue skies as the backdrop.
Then, at noon, we took a break at the shop that has bird feeders out for the Long-tailed tits “Shimaenaga.” Tourists are there eating the pasta flavored with locally grown basil and Hokkaido’s famous ice cream while observing the small long-tailed tits that were attracted by the birdfeeders.
In the evening, we observed the cranes going to roost. Due to the fact that they all return at once from the feeding site to the roost, we waited for the photo opportunity by waiting along the route. Over the 2 days, we saw a large number of cranes flying overhead. On the second day in particular, the sunset was a beautiful hue, so many people were able to get photos with a magical atmosphere.
Photo & Text: Wataru HIMENO
Observation: Tsurui Village, East-Hokkaido
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
February is generally the peak season in Hokkaido’s eastern region, but what is it like in January? In this blog, we would like to introduce the wildlife that you might see in East Hokkaido (Kushiro, Notsuke Pennisula, Rausu) in January.
Short-Eared Owl (Notsuke Peninsula)
During this period, short-eared owls migrating from Siberia and other places, could be observed (depending on the year). This grassland owl is a rarity in Japan, but when you visit the open grassy fields in the evening, you might observe them flying around looking for mice. After that, as the weather gets colder, many of the owls migrate to other places around the main island of Japan (Honshu), so Hokkaido in January might be the best time to photograph the snowy landscapes with short-eared owls.
Ural Owl (Eastern Hokkaido)
The ural owl, is an endemic species that inhabits Hokkaido as a resident year around. It is easy to spot these birds in the leafless trees.
Blakiston’s Fish Owl (Rausu)
The Blakiston’s fish owl can be seen from a facility along the Chitorai River in Rausu. It is a very rare species that inhabits only eastern Hokkaido and Far East Russia (Kunashir Island).
In eastern Hokkaido, there are wildlife that migrate here to overwinter, and there are also resident birds as well. They are most abundant in February, and can be easily seen flying around Lake Furen and Rausu.
The Steller’s sea eagles, which breed in Far East Russia such as in the Kamchatka Peninsula, migrate to eastern Hokkaido in the winter. February is the most common, month they start arriving, but I was able to confirm their appearance in January as well.
Red Crowned Crane (Tsurui Village)
In January, the red-crowned cranes are preparing for the breeding season. I was able to see the paired couples singing and dancing together, and a young bird practicing alone. From February to March, the breeding season is in full swing, the number of couples increase and the time they spend doing their displays goes on for longer periods of time.
Red Fox
The red fox, a subspecies that inhabits the Sakhalin, Hokkaido and its surroundings, is also approaching their breeding season as well. During this period, males will walk large areas in the deep snow searching for females, so the muscles of the upper body are said to be very developed, and this one here is a good example, showing very developed pectoral muscles.
One fox approached us with the Kunashir Island in the backdrop, and if you look closely at its tail, you can see some small hair loss. Scabies is spreading among the red foxes, and is seems to be causing a population decline.
Ezo Sika Deer
These are some Ezo Sika Deer with the Kunashir Islands in the background. At this time of year, they have winter fur and are very cute, but they have a voracious appetite and are highly successful at reproduction, so in some areas they are being exterminated due to damage to agricultural areas. At Shiretoko Sarai, the venison is added to the menu so it is not wasted.
In addition, you might see kestrel and a group of long-tailed tit.
January was a fulfilling time to encounter wildlife in eastern Hokkaido for a 3 nights and 4 days stay in January.
Photo & text: Wataru HIMENO
Observation: Jan 2023, Eastern Hokkaido
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
Usually, the Blakiston’s fish owls will mate in February and lay two eggs in March. The female warms them for 35 consecutive days, without rest. However, for the Blakiston’s fish owls it is very challenging with various factors influencing the results: like the extreme weather and cold temperatures during breeding; the physical condition of each owl itself; and their past experience of raising chicks. On average only one bird survives until fledging.
At the Blakiston’s fish owl Observatory in Rausu (Washinoyado), the birds can be observed throughout the year, and in June 2022, the pair were able to fledge both chicks for the first time in 15 years! The young birds practiced flying near their nest, and then eventually around August, they would come down to the river with their parents to learn how to catch the fish. Around September, they learned how to hunt for themselves, becoming more independent.
Mother bird showing how to hunt
The mother taking the food to the chicks
Sometimes, there are young birds that cannot fish successfully, and end up on the roadsides to try to eat roadkill. However, they might end up getting hit by cars due to the dark conditions. Thankfully, our two chicks at the Observatory have been safe from this kind of accident so far.
One of the chicks born in 2022
In December, the two will become independent, and then around 2024 they will mature and find their own partners and live somewhere in Shiretoko. I am praying that they can both survive the trials of winter to live long lives.
Image & text: Kaito IMAHORI
This report is based on observations till Oct 2022
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have a guesthouse, Shiretoko Serai, in Rausu, Shiretoko Peninsula.
The Long-tailed tit in Hokkaido is Aegithalos caudatus japonicus, a sub-species of the Long-tailed tits found on Honshu. Unlike the tits of the mainland, the Hokkaido tits do not have thick black eyebrows, so their faces are all white.
With a white face like a snowball, a small beak, round eyes, and yellow eyelids, the Hokkaido long-tailed tits are called “snow fairies” because they are so cute in their appearance. It became quite popular when it was featured in Japanese animation (anime) and comics (manga), and a variety of souvenir goods. They can be observed all year around in Hokkaido, but in the cold winter months, they will puff out their feathers to stay warm. Many wild bird photographers are aiming to capture them in that cute, round shape.
From mid-February to early March, once the bitter cold starts to loosen its grip, the parts of the trees that are damaged will start to drip out sap, which freezes into sweet icicles. Small birds, such as the Long-tailed tits, can be seen hovering around the trees, licking the sap as a precious source of sugars in their bodies.
Photograhy & text : Kaito IMAHORI (Shiretoko Serai)
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have our guesthouse Shiretoko Serai in Rausu on the Shiretoko Peninsula.
Please see other article from Kaito IMAHORI about Wildlife of Hokkaido
In Hokkaido you can find 10 out of the 11 species of owls that live in Japan, making it an owl sanctuary of sorts. There are two species that are especially sought after by birders, the Ural Owls and the Blakiston’s Fish Owls.
The Blakiston’s Fish Owl lives in only a limited number of places in the northeastern part of the Eurasian continent, and due to that, many birders come from around the world for a chance to see them in the wild.
The Ural Owls are more widely distributed in northern Eurasia – from Scandinavia to East Asia. Although it is a common pet species, the subspecies that lives in Hokkaido, Strix uralensis japonica, is particularly lovely in appearance, with whiter feathers compared to their cousins elsewhere. For this reason, they are often pursued by bird watchers in Japan and beyond.
From January to March, the courtship activities of the Ural Owl can be observed. Especially in February, when the mating is at its peak, you will often see the pairs cuddling. They will often preen each other’s wings and feathers, sticking close together. This is often referred to as a symbol of happiness.
Photography & text : Kaito IMAHORI (Shiretoko Serai)
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have our guesthouse Shiretoko Serai in Rausu on the Shiretoko Peninsula.
Please see other article from Kaito IMAHORI about Wildlife of Hokkaido
This year (2022), many Steller’s sea eagles and white-tailed eagles have come to Shiretoko and Rausu to pass the winter. This year, about 300 Steller’s sea eagles and about 120 white-tailed eagles, made a total of 420 birds that were observed at one time.
Rausu has long been used by many eagles during the winter months. A big reason for that is the fishing industry. In winter, cod fishing reaches its peak in the Nemuro Strait between Rausu and Kunashir Island. Until 30-40 years ago, Rausu accounted for nearly half of all Hokkaido catches, with 110,000 tons of fish being caught in 1989, the catch was the highest. At that time, the ships were overflowing with fish, and the eagles were busy eating them. Today the harvest has decreased to about 10,000 tons a year, so the fish no longer overflow from the boats. Now, the tourist boats serve the role that the fishing vessels once did, giving them the fish to eat to help the Eagles survive the winter.
Photography & text : Kaito IMAHORI (Shiretoko Serai)
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have our guesthouse Shiretoko Serai in Rausu on the Shiretoko Peninsula.
Please see other article from Kaito IMAHORI about Wildlife of Hokkaido
June 14 (Tuesday) Cloudy, then Sunny
Despite the cloudy and foggy weather, we boarded the ship in the morning. As soon as we set sail, the announcement over the intercom announced “We will go look for Minke Whales,” and we made our way to the ocean. In fact, Minke whales will appear out here, but it often seems like when they do come out, it always is just a flash of dorsal fin and then they hide immediately. They are not like the killer whales which take their time around you so we can enjoy watching them for some time. It can be so frustrating with the Minkes. After that, we had three boats searching for killer whales as well, but we did not have even one sighting.
We also couldn’t find any large flocks of Short-tailed Shearwaters, only sometimes seeing a Rhinoceros Auklet and the Northern Fulmar to photograph. Then, out of nowhere, a large flock of Fulmars started following our boat, as the rode the waves that the boat was creating! In a rush, I went to tell the tour participants, so they could get photos of the flock. They were able to get photos of them.
In the afternoon, it cleared up and was perfectly sunny, so we went to Shiretoko Pass for the Pine Grosbeak. I had heard from others that the grosbeak was not coming out lately, so it was just going to be up to luck if we did get to see it. Then, while we were chatting and eating our lunch, the driver shouted out at me, “Hey, Mr. Tozuka, isn’t that the Pine Grosbeak?” As he was pointing at the Siberian Dwarf Pine very near to us. Sure enough, just in the spot super close to us, was a brightly colored male sitting on the branch!
At 3:30 PM, we wrapped things up there and headed to the Rausu Visitor’s Center, then we returned to the lodging. Same as the previous night, we had some free time until dinner time. In the evening after dinner, we headed back to the Blakiston’s Fish Owl Observatory for photos.
Similar to the night before, one bird arrived at 7:50 PM. At around 8:50, it returned and before I could realize it, the other bird had arrived and we could get photos of the pair together. Then, again like the previous night, they left and did not return. We left there around 11PM.
June 15, (Wednesday) Sunny
I was awakened by a phone call at 6:50 AM, it was the chartered cruise boat company. “Today we are seeing high waves so we will cancel the cruise for today.” I was speechless. It was really sunny and seemed like perfectly good weather…but there was nothing we could do. I explained the situation to the guests over breakfast, and agreed to change the plan to try again for photos of the Pine Grosbeak. We retuned to the same place we saw it yesterday, and I searched around for it here and there but to no avail. Then as I was walking around, I saw a group of cameramen… “There is the red male!” they pointed it out. So, I ran to get my group participants and we all waited patiently for him to reappear. While we were there, the male came out 4 or 5 times again. Everyone’s photos were so-so but at least they could capture the red clearly on the male.
In the afternoon, we went to photograph the brown bears that appeared on the coast of the Shiretoko Peninsula. I was so worried because the morning cruise had already been canceled on us, but the Captain gave us the “Go” sign and we hurried to the wharf.
Our cruise for this tour is using a small boat, so we were able to get quite close to the shoreline when the bears appeared. First to come out was a young bear and we were able to get him at a pretty close distance. After that, we kept encountering bears one after another, and at the tip of the cape, we were able to see a mother and her two cubs. It is quite a rare thing to see bears at the end of the peninsula like that, so we were pretty lucky with this sighting!
Since we were all the way at the far end of the Cape, we were about to go over time with our cruise, but on the way back, there was another sighting and the Captain of the boat said “There are two bears.” Perhaps they were a young pair of siblings, but they let us get their photos as well. On this day, we observed a total of 9 bears, for me this was the highest encounter rate I had ever had! Even though we went over time, the captain’s gracious attitude made it very unforgettable cruise.
This evening’s lodging is in Shari, and it will take some time to get down there, so we had a plan not to make any stops along the way. But right when we left, we saw a baby fox who was quite a character, so we started a photo session, right out the gate. This charming little fox did not run away, and even when we stepped out of the vehicle for photos he did not run. He let us get loads of photos of him playing by himself and even stopped to strike a pose for us now and then!
As we started making our way, the driver asked me, “So, Neboku Pass or Shiretoko Pass?” Since the weather was pretty good and clear, I decided to catch the beautiful evening vista of Shiretoko for our drive.
June 16 (Thursday) Light Rain and then, Sunny
Finally we are on our last day of the tour. It was a soft rain in the morning, but as soon as we left, it lifted. Today our goal is the Koshimizu Wild Flower Garden for the small birds.
Perhaps it was the low temperatures, but the little birds were pretty quiet today. However, as the temperatures rose, we started to hear the calls of the Lanceolated Warbler which sounds like the chirping of insects. We were not so fortunate as the birds, like the Locustellidae were making calls but they just would not make any appearances! It was so frustrating! LOL…Only the Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warbler showed itself. This year, due to the colder weather, the flowers were blooming late, so the sightings were not so good. But still at least we could see the Black Lily Fritillaria camtschatcensis.
Since the time hit 10 AM, we moved from here to the final leg of the tour. We explored the lakeside paths, and looked for creatures to photograph. We could see and photograph different species like the kingfisher, little ringed plover, and the yellow-bellied kingfisher.
I wish to thank all the participants who came on this tour, I appreciate the good times during our long tour for 6 days and 5 nights!
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have our guesthouse Shiretoko Serai in Rausu on the Shiretoko Peninsula.
Please see other article related “Birds Photography in East Hokkaido”
June 12 (Sunday) Cloudy with Heavy Rain
We started with taking photos around Lake Furen, early in the morning. Typically, on good weather days, we would start the morning around 4:30 to 5am, but on this day, it was dark and cloudy so we gathered in front of the lodging to begin shooting.
A pair of Red-crowned Cranes were in the marsh.
The yellow flowers of the Thermopsis montana in the foreground help to frame the pair off in the distance.
I was loading the bags in the car after breakfast when I saw a bright red male Long-tailed Rosefinch just on the opposite side of the road. Everyone started clicking away.
We head to the Ochiishi port, and on the way there were a pair of White-tailed Eagles perched on a large tree. We approached quietly and slowly and showing no signs of wanting to fly away, we could get photos of them from the bridge.
I was honestly a little worried about the rough seas and being able to get out for the cruise in Ochiishi, but we were able to leave safely.
The Rhinoceros auklet was the first thing we saw, appearing now and then. But the real challenge is taking photos with the waves rocking the boat…it was really swaying. Such difficult conditions to get a good photo!
So I happened to look up just as a bird was flying over us…(It was stubby and plump, but flew higher than a puffin…!) So I blurted out “Tufted Puffin!” and luckily or unluckily by the time everyone looked up, the bird had flown so close, but all they could see was the tail as it flew away. These recent years have seen a decrease in the number of sightings, so we were just lucky to see it at all!
*Side note: In Japan, these species are so rare to be seen but they do breed on Yururi Island and Moyururi Islands.
After that, our guide spotted a young Horned Puffin which we photographed. The other tour participants seemed to have trouble getting a good photo of it that was in focus. But this bird is rarely seen in Japan and on top of that, it was in its summer plumage, which is even more rare!
There was some information going around that many Red-faced Cormorants were around this year, so we went to the rocky outcrops. It is very challenging to photograph from the rocking ship, but the tour members did a pretty good job.
We then made our way to the rocky area where we could observe the Sea Otters, and the first ones we saw were a baby with its parent. Soon after that we encountered a raft of sea otters, maybe 10 or so who were wrapped in kelp. It was like we transported to California! For me, this was the first time to see such a scene and I was super excited! In Hokkaido the sea otters only breed in the Nemuro area (Cape Kiritappu and the Moyururi Islands) so again, we were so lucky to see this many at once.
The otters wrapping themselves in the kelp beds. Sea otters found in Hokkaido are subspecies, Enhydra lutris lutris. It had at one time disappeared from the wild in Japan, but it was confirmed to be breeding since 1980.
There were some Spectacled Guillemots in the area so now and then we could grab some photos of them as well. Just before entering the harbor to alight, the Arctic Skua also made an appearance. I could not get a good photo of them, but typically they live offshore, so again, we had a fortunate chance to get to see some so close to the port.
June 13 (Monday) Rainy and Remained Cloudy after the rain
We headed to the Nosuke Peninsula in the early morning. There, the deer had already finished off the grass in the most easily accessible areas for photography. This is usually the place that the birds go for collecting nesting materials, but due to the overgrazing, the bird’s numbers are decreasing, and we could not see them. We moved on to some spots where we could see some flowers blooming, but it was quite cold there, so the birds were not feeding near the flower blooms. This is because when the temperatures are cold, the bugs stay close to the ground.
The Ezo deer in their summer coats.
However, the Common Cuckoo was flying around in the area. We could see some other small bird species that were nesting in the area as well.
This day’s lodging in Rausu was the Shiretoko Serai, an inn run by our Saiyu Travel Agency. The dinner was so elaborate and presented to nicely, that I could not believe I was in Rausu. Then at night, we were off to see the Blakiston’s fish owls…if only we could have stayed to relax and enjoy the meal a little longer! lol
This year, the pair of fish owls had 2 chicks, so the parents were at the feeding spot often to catch food for them. They came at 7:50pm, then again at 8:50, but we did not see them again after that. We finished our evening birding activities as planned around 11PM. (If the Owls had not made any appearance, we would have stayed until midnight, just in case.)
*Contact us, Saiyu Travel for more information about wildlife and bird watching in Hokkaido. We can make various arrangements for your trip. We have our guesthouse Shiretoko Serai in Rausu on the Shiretoko Peninsula.
Please see other article related “Birds Photography in East Hokkaido”
In late June, I visited the Little tern breeding area at Kemigawa Beach. It was a Sunday and everyone seemed to be staying indoors during the COVID-19, but there were some “beach goers” out enjoying themselves. There are also some “bird watchers” with their big, long camera lenses and looking through binoculars in one particular area of the beach.
The little tern breeding ground is a section of the beach roped off to keep people out of the area.
Both the eggs and chicks are very camouflaged, and I had a hard time finding them at first. I finally found them when the parent bird brought some food to the chick. After some time, once my eyes got the right search image, then I could confirm that there were eggs and chicks everywhere.
Two eggs and one chick.
One egg and two chicks.
These two chicks were a little bigger.
The chick receiving its food.
Probably the parent birds are stressed about getting enough food to their babies, but we on-lookers are filled with joy at seeing this precious sight. We can hear loving comments and coos coming from the bird watchers as they get their food.
A newly hatched chick and its older sibling.
It is so surprising to think that this is a sight so close to Tokyo City, just on the Tokyo Bay. It really impressed me that these little guys can breed and survive these tough situations in a small area surrounded by such a metropolis. I was so moved by what I saw this day.
Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: End of Jun 2020, Kemigawa beach, Chiba, Japan
Special Thanks: Hobby’s World, Rocky MATSUMURA
In early July of 2021, the “Teuri Island Seabird Class” was led by nature photographer, Takaki Terasawa, who lives on Teuri Island. The tour was 4 days and 3 nights, with a full syllabus, to learn about the seabirds, take pictures of them, and learn more about the environmental issues they face, and to just enjoy seeing the Island itself.
During the stay, on a clam morning, Mr. Terasawa captained the ship named “Keimafuri-Gou” for our seabird observation cruise. (Keimafuri is the Japanese name for the Spectacled Guillemot.) During this season, daybreak was at 4am, so by the time we left the dock at 6am, it was already bright out. As we pulled out from Maehama Fishing Port, we could see the Rhinoceros Auklets floating around us in the water here and there. We headed out towards the direction of Akaiwa (Red Rock.)
As we neared Akaiwa (Red Rock) I could see the Spectacled Guillemots flying! They are a seabird that only breeds on the coasts of the Sea of Okhotsk, on the Kamchatka Peninsula, and in Japan, they are only found in Aomori Prefecture and Hokkaido. So it is so rare to see them in the world and even more rare to be able to see their breeding grounds.
Just around Akaiwa (Red Rock) and Byobuiwa (Folding Screen Rock) there were so many Spectacled Guillemots. Their appearance makes the name pretty easy to understand, as their wonderful eye rings makes them look as if they are “wearing glasses.” Some of the Kuril Island’s Pigeon Guillemots with their white eyes where worriedly looking at our boat “Is that the Keimafuri?” But the thick white-ringed eyes of the Spectacled Guillemots were really superb.
The Spectacled Guillemots that were sitting on the rocks. According to Mr. Terasawa, these rocky areas are very significant areas for these seabirds. There have been various behaviors while observing them here, as well as even seeing birds mate on this rocky outcrop.
I could also hear the loud calls of the Spectacled Guillemots from the rocks. It feels like I could just watch them forever, as they are engaged in their conversations out there.
Over here also, it’s as if the other birds are watching these two birds at the top converse.
This is a splendid pair. The breast feathers of the bird on the right are unique.
Then, as if it is timed, they all take off in unison. The red legs of the Guillemots are kicking at the surface of the water as they take flight.
Captain Terasawa’s vessel “Keimafuri-Gou” is a small 6-seater. Getting that eye-level view, is possible only on the Keimafuri-Gou! And the name of the boat on the side, was beautifully hand-painted by Mr. Terasawa himself!
This is a bottle of Junmai Sake sold at “Umi no Uchukan” (Teuri Visitor Center) is named after the Spectacled Guillemots as well. The “Keimafuri” sake is 100% made from Hokkaido grown rice in Asahikawa by farmer Takasago Shuzo. And the Guillemot pair on the label is a drawing made by illustrator Hiroshi Abe. It is a very nice label.
After seeing the wild birds in the morning, we enjoyed the evening with sea urchin caught locally and some delicious Keimafuri Sake at night…
To close the trip, we had a tasty local flavor of “Teuri’s Barbecue.” This is the peak season for the harvest of purple sea urchins! By the way, the meat in the background is “the phantom Suffolk lamb” from nearby Yagishiri Island. I could receive the “fortunes” of Yagishiri Island also!
Photo & text: Mariko SAWADA
Observation: July 2021, Teuri island, Hokkaido