The Wara river runs through a series of hamlets nestled among the mountains that span the gap between Mino and Hida cities in Japan’s Gifu prefecture. The river calls itself home to an amphibian species that is entirely unique to Japan, and which has been dubbed one of its “Special Natural Monuments.” This species is of course, the Japanese giant salamander. Around the middle of the month of June, you can also feast your eyes on the beauty of the fireflies that assemble around the river’s tributaries.
When observing the salamanders in person, it’s important to abide by one key rule: never attempt to touch them on your own. In addition to being one of Japan’s “Special Natural Monuments,” the country’s Ministry of the Environment also lists the species’ conservation status as “Vulnerable.” Needless to say, Japan takes great care to protect these animals, and it’s important that wildlife enthusiasts follow suit. Though you cannot touch them directly, you will have the opportunity to put on an underwater mask and photograph (or take videos of) the creatures for yourself.
During summertime, Japanese giant salamanders rise above the water’s surface to breathe approximately every few minutes. Each time, they clumsily swim up from their home to the surface, poke their heads out to breathe, and then scramble hurriedly to return to their original position. There’s something wonderfully endearing about it all—it’s enough to trigger one’s parental instincts, making you want to protect these not-so-little guys at all costs.
The Japanese giant salamander is a nocturnal species, and during the day, they prefer to hide their heads among the river’s many rocks. Though they have a dislike of bright places, you will still have a chance to photograph them as they come up to breathe. Even ones which might be facing away from you will eventually—if you wait long enough—come up to breathe and offer you a chance to get a frontal photo. Patience and resolve are the key to getting that perfect shot! The most rewarding photo to get, however, would probably be of their cute yawns. If you manage to get the timing down just right, you could snap a splendid shot of the salamanders with their mouths wide open! In addition to this, it’s possible to see the salamanders engaged in a wide variety of behaviors, including feasting on nearby fish, and even shedding their skin.
The salamanders sometimes come out of the river, and—a few times a year—can be spotted on the banks of the river’s low-head dam. Those who witness this sight can consider themselves very lucky! A great deal of these salamanders call a wide range of the Wara river their home. Most interestingly, as of January 2025, no specimens that have interbred with the Chinese giant salamander have been confirmed in the area. This means that the Wara river is a very special place, home to a uniquely Japanese species of salamander.
In addition to the Japanese giant salamander, the riverside is home to many other notable animals. Among them is the ayu (or sweetfish), a fish so popular that it has turned into its own brand—the “Wara Ayu.” The biggest draw to this fish is, without a doubt, its fragrance. Schools of ayu swarm the waters of the river in summertime, filling the air with their unique smell, reminiscent of a refreshing watermelon. When cooked, they’re often stuffed with high-grade seaweed, and the moment you take a bite, a wonderful fragrant aroma courses through your mouth—the slightly bitter tones mix perfectly with the sweet and savory ones, making for a truly exquisite flavor profile.
For lodgings, you’ll be able to stay in a 170-year-old kominka (an old, traditional Japanese house). Gathering around the sunken hearth, you’ll have the chance to partake in drinks and lively conversation with others, all while enjoying an authentic taste of Japanese traditional life.
Food served here is primarily Japanese, featuring dishes that use river fish and seasonal mountain plants. At this inn, you’ll find remarkable peace and quiet—the kind only a home deep in the mountains can offer. It is a perfect spot for a busy traveler to unwind and ease their mind. The proprietress of this inn is also a wonderful and talkative lady, who will no doubt make your tour an even more lively and entertaining experience.
Text & Photos: Yoshihiro Ito
★Related tour：Japanese Giant Salamander and Dancing Fireflies
Underwater photographer and diving instructor. After a noteworthy diving experience in Iriomote Island, he became infatuated with the sea and went on to obtain his instructor’s license. Having dived in seas and rivers all across the world, he is still most fascinated by the rich ecosystem of the rivers in his home prefecture of Gifu. After resolving himself to become a guide for lesser-known, lesser-explored regions of the world, he established Itōsensuikikaku—or “Ito’s Diving Tours.” There, he plans and leads tours that showcase the various rich wildlife that inhabits rivers.
★Contact us to make arrangements for observation of Giant Salamander and Dancing Fireflies.
★Wildlife videos are also available on Youtube – we have the playlist as well.
